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Yes ANOTHER stinger thread. But wait theres more!

hunterboi34470

hunterboi34470

Well-known member
Alright so I bought a Jimmy white hull to replace my (who even knows what) hull. It has a spot that needs repair and with further inspection it's definitely going to need stringers. So here's the big question. Has anyone ever done full pour epoxy stringers? Like just cut the tops out scrape out all the wood and fill with pour epoxy? I feel like if it's done right it would be pretty strong. T-88 epoxy has a tensile strength of 7000 psi. Would it work? Just a newbie asking questions..
 

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What you’re saying but use close cell foam and glass over. Why add all that weight?

I hate friggin fiberglass, it’s junk.
 
The strength is actually in the fiberglass schedule which covers the vertical structure. Yes, you can use wood, foam or epoxy for the stringer. If you are cutting the top of the existing stringer and cleaning it out, just pour foam, cut off the excess and re-glass with a proper schedule.
 
That may well be possible, but I can't confirm that's the case. I would research that for any given product.

The one I've used and know to be a sage recommendation is here: Stringer Foam

US Composites is a tremendous resource if you were unaware of them.
 
What density do you recommend? And about what size kit would I need to do all 4 stringers?

Deano said:
That may well be possible, but I can't confirm that's the case. I would research that for any given product.

The one I've used and know to be a sage recommendation is here: Stringer Foam

US Composites is a tremendous resource if you were unaware of them.
Click to expand...
 
You may want to click on the link Deano provided and look up the product specs. Either, 8lb or 16lb foam is plenty to provide a rigid structure to prevent the fiberglass deflection. 16lb foam expands half as much as 8lb.
Measure the volume of the stringers you wish to fill. L x W x H. Use the product chart to calculate your needs. Simple.
Make sure you grind and clean the existing glass to obtain a good bond when you lay up the new material. Stringers are Structural and need to be built correctly to sustain the loads and not delaminate.
Some pictures may aid in our suggestions for you.
 
Also....
Fiberglass doesn’t like to flex and will fracture when it does repeatedly. This is the cause of many failures and subsequent rot of the wood underneath. Using an adequate layup schedule of mat and cloth/roving is important, as well as surface prep and application. Don’t skimp on cheap resin and materials.
 
I used to buy it at Poly U Mac in Miami. They didn't like trading with public but I had a shop with tax number so they would deal with me. Their vinyl ester material came between 5 and 30 lb density. The 10 and 12 lb are grey. I tried to copy out the chart but it won't let me. I would go to a fiberglass shop that does boat work on boats. They can probably order you material at a better price and get you better material.
As far as the woven material I would use a biaxial 1708 materiel with the chopped stran sewn to it. It rolls in easier and goes around bends much easier.
 
Gary S said:
I used to buy it at Poly U Mac in Miami. They didn't like trading with public but I had a shop with tax number so they would deal with me. Their vinyl ester material came between 5 and 30 lb density. The 10 and 12 lb are grey. I tried to copy out the chart but it won't let me. I would go to a fiberglass shop that does boat work on boats. They can probably order you material at a better price and get you better material.
As far as the woven material I would use a biaxial 1708 materiel with the chopped stran sewn to it. It rolls in easier and goes around bends much easier.
Click to expand...
I dont know of any hull builder/repair shops around Ocala area
 
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