Roger that!

.125 bottom 5086. .100 sides 5052 325 lbs. so I was told. Thanks for the advice! I'm trying to take the measure twice cut once approach!

So I have my new hull ready for poly. Steel flex is on and cured. Planning on bolting the leading edge and riveting the remainder. The hull is a Circle H 12 x 8. The flat measures 64" across where it is broke. 64" is front to rear. I'm planning on running the poly all the way to the rake. 57" back f...

Right one is an old Panhead that I am converting to a hardtail for a guy and left is one I built for myself years ago. 107 Ultima 6 speed Ultima hardtail frame custom everything else. 500 miles into it the chain came loose and ripped the rear fender down into the tire a locked it up. 12 years ago an...

Fresh coat of Steelflex on my new Circle H 12x8 before the polymer goes on!

75 mph 13' Big O with a DD 408 Windsor with a tail wind on I-75!!!

Roger that. I was told to put steelflex on before poly to help to keep corrosion to a minimum. It came from a guy with a riveted hull. His reason was because his bottom is 6061 alloy and keep the corrosion at bay.

Mr. Fenner why the roof coating out of curiosity? I think I know but like to hear from experience.

I changed out a 400hp 4 barrel FiTech injection unit for a 400hp 2 barrel Fitech unit on my 408 Windsor and picked up 300 rpms without any other changes. Difference being 1000 cfm vs. 500 cfm. On a DD, manifold air speed is crucial for performance!!! 450 Holley 4 barrel would be perfect as Mr. Fenne...

I have one with bolted poly and the scar from the hole in my foot from missing a step on the top of the gunwale and sliding down the inside catching one of the longer 1/4 bolts!!!!! Back deep in the Flying Eagle it happened. Punctured the ball of my right foot and tore it sideways. Had to use clotin...

Harmonics? If that were true then LS engines couldn't be used since the firing order is the same. Most don't want to bother with starter mounting since it doesn't bolt to the block like chevy.

Certainly can't use a Ford engine on a direct drive!

So we can turn and burn in one day. Naples guy was here a 9 a.m. and done by 4, loaded up and on his way. About an hour to hook up. Warm up session. If solid, readjustment of valves, then tuning. Initial base timing first, jetting is next. Once the AFR's are happy then timing can be adjusted for pea...

Absolutely. Just did one the other day that a guy bought used and wanted to know hp/tq, make sure jetting was correct (which was fat as a hog), and timing. Had an airboat engine back last year that came out of Naples, that didn't make the power they thought it would. We have the bell housing rings f...

Well it helps with preventing engine damage. That Blueprint engine that melted down because it was way lean, no adjustments needed back on the boat. Tuned for proper AFR ratio to bolt on a go. Timing is critical for moving power around on the rpm range. Also gives information on for pitching blades ...

I get that you trust him. It would be nice if the rest of the world got to see what kind of power he's makin. Don't want to know the man's secrets just curious of hp and tq. Prop is just an air dyno but can't give hard numbers.

I get that you trust him. It would be nice if the rest of the world got to see what kind of power he's makin. Don't want to know the man's secrets just curious of hp and tq. Prop is just an air dyno but can't give hard numbers.

No dyno time? How do you know if the tune is correct or what kind of numbers it produces? Seat of the pants tuning is wonderful but can leave power on the table.

What kind of numbers is Mr Branch getting out of those big Caddys? Nothing against gearbox guys but I believe there's a real art to making an automotive engine work well with a direct drive. I'm certainly no artist by any stretch. Mr. Branch I think deserves that title.

At this point I'm not sure I would trade. I would have liked to more testing at lower rpms but since this wasn't an airboat build and I just work there not owning the shop, not much leverage on what goes on as far as dynoing. I believe the 335 series engines are capable of swinging a good size prop ...

So this is the way we weighed it. Less distributor, coil, headers, flexplate, and pulleys. 5 qts. of oil but no coolant. 520 lbs. Assume 40 lbs less for aluminum heads. Fully dressed I would put it at 500 to 520 lbs. 351m and 400 are the same block. Basically a tall deck Cleveland. 351m is 4.00 bore...

The web says in 1978 the 351m in a truck made a whopping 155 hp @ 4000 rpm. Significant power can be brought out of these but it is expensive. 480 lbs. with aluminum heads. Might be an alternative.

Unfortunately the dyno doesn't wanna let us pull down that far with effective results. Plus since we weren't building it for an airboat, max numbers is what we were concerned with. I would love to experiment but I don't own the business so can't play the way I would like! I'd be dragging it down low...

So on another post I let it be know we were working on a 351 Modified for a 78 Bronco. The customer ordered a 4.350 Molnar stroker crank along with rods and pistons to produce a total of 444 cubic inches. Bore is 4.030. Stock iron 2V heads, Edelbrock intake, Bullet hydraulic roller cam, Scorpion 1.7...

The quality of the Molnar is excellent. The crank required heavy metal to balance. Clearances were spot on! Very nice alternative to Scat and Eagle products. We should know tomorrow on the dyno.