My boat is 19.5x8 with an enclosed cab. I run a big block 540 with 600hp/650ftlbs at 4800 where I turn my motor. My boat runs ground surprisingly well. Set up has a lot to do with your running. This boat runs ground better than my old 18x8. I don’t buy into the 1lb per hp guys will try and say you ...

19x8 going to be fairly heavy. 550 isn't going to cut it IMO. 4lbs of loaded boat weight per 1 hp for fairly good performance out of the water. 6lbs of loaded boat weight per 1 hp for marginal performance (you will be shaking the rake occasionally) Don't go off out in the middle of nowhere solo with...

About 300 hp minimum without needing to under pitch.

You probably dont realize it but you just necro'd a post that is almost a decade old......

Just need to have enough power. Doesnt matter how you get there really. As previously stated, 6lbs per hp or less. Lower always better. What engine you use to make the number you come up with based on the above is totally up to you based on a bunch of other factors that have nothing to do with makin...

Ha, definitely timeless good advice there! Glad I was able to pass it on and have it stick. I learned it through old timers and plenty of ideas that didn't work out so well.

On topic for a moment, you need more power. Put the turbo on and dont look back.

Best of luck!

Well, 4 falcons were equal to 3 maximus blades in my tests. The 4 falcons had a little steeper curve from a required power perspective and loaded my engine in an rpm range I didn't have enough fuel to cover so I went back to 3 max setup without losing any thrust. Cruise rpm was just slightly higher ...

As for RPM, I run around 5800 to 5900 with a 2.38 box and swing a 3 blade 80 inch maximus pitched at the "2" mark. So, that's in the RPM range you are talking about. You didn't mention which water Walker blade you have but if it's not a maximus you may consider going to 4 of those. I wouldn't trade ...

No way in hell I would run slick bottom on St. Johns. Way too many areas with conditions that would simply destroy the bottom without UHMW. Most of the dykes you have to cross South of 192 for example are just covered in rock. I hit a submerged powerline wire support a while back at idle speed that ...

Stick marsh to the area you are talking about can be seen in this video.

Steel engine stand, everything else aluminum.

Oh, stainless cage wire too.

As previously stated, alum has literally zero fatigue strength so make sure the structure doesnt flex or it will, not if, fail eventually.

Good luck!

Do you guys run a second spring?

Run 3 if you can. It's near certain death / fiasco if throttle sticks open in a lot of situations.

Inspect them before each ride along with rudder linkages too.

Looking good to me!

Welds are pretty solid too. Have seen a lot of stainless rigging over the years with popcorn madness. Good to not see that on yours!

My personal favorite....

Yep, can see it real well in both of these videos. Dave Simpson makes a nice product.

https://simpsonqd.com/

Water was good last weekend. Not too high, not too low. Just right to have some fun both in and out of the water.

Any chance you know the coefficient of Static and Dynamic friction? Dynamic is more interesting. Also, thermal expansion numbers as well as abrasion would give us all the info needed to know if it stands a good chance of replacing UHMW. Lastly, peel strength would probably be mandatory given the hor...

Simpson Quality Design Dave builds a very high quality palm beach style product. Highly recommend you call him before deciding where to go. He has multiple patented technologies over the years and builds everything on site in his shop from the runners on up. Website / phone number here: https://simp...

If you do research I think you will find you mount the engine as low as possible for maximum thrust. Having the tip of the prop below the transom does not lose any measurable thrust and having the engine lower gives it a much better push point. This is totally true. High push point is something to ...

Yep, never have to worry about any of the sensor wires coming lose because every one of them uses some type of very secure locking method like that one. Once you have it inserted and locked correctly, no way it's ever coming out on its own. Just another reason why the platform is mostly trouble free...

Dont see video posted here, so, nope! Only way I know to get video on this forum is to upload to youtube and then copy the YouTube link to your post.

Sensors aren't something to worry about imo. They are very reliable in my experience. Also, I actually prefer factory, unopened engines vs "built" engines. The factory absolutely knows how to put them together for reliable operation. Custom builds can also be reliable, but my experience is its hit o...

Glad to hear your getting support. Simple issue to fix too, so win win!

The formula never changes.

6lbs of loaded boat weight per available hp and it will run dry acceptably.

The less weight per hp the better.

Imo, 400hp on a 16x8 is going to under perform because you will exceed 2400lbs easily.

Big boat, Big power. No way around it.

Good luck!

Yep, tuner did what tuners do. Fail hard core at doing what they said they were going to do.

You have several sensors that need to have their faults turned off.

It's that or you have some sensors to work out the issues on. Just look up those codes and go one by one.