no i'm not saying that at all...if the 6AA is as it was in the helicopter with the AMC unit still intact then it is a lot of carb for a 4 cyl but any of these carbs to a certain point can be modified and setup to run on different engines...if ya find your using a lot of fuel for a 4 cyl or the plugs...

just for your information......6AA CARB is a 540 helicopter carb...it has the lean/rich fuel shut off lever in the bottom of the bowl...there is also a 6AA carb that was used on the GEARED VO -435 helicopter engine...both are large bore #277 carbs...oem on the 360 engine is a small bore #187 carb wi...

i dont know if it is still available but aircraft spruce used to sell a kit for the dynafocal mount 4 cyls it was everything ya need but you had to assemble it and weld it up it was designed for airplane home builders and was really slick

68 NGQ is what i run on my 200....best prop i ever bolted on it

the carb you have is an MA-4-5....if there is a tag on it there will be a part number stamped on the tag 10-????...if ya give me that number i can tell ya exactly what you have...it looks like a nice setup with the filter assembly.....gear nosed engines have a gear reduction unit bolted to the crank...

you bet

if it has the oem 4spa carb on it a nice upgrade is a #187 bore 4-5 carb jetted and adjusted for that engine

GARY S is right...depending on the model number aircraft spruce has parts but be setting down when ya look them up ie coil for a 4300 series is $479

1/4 X 20 Make sure you use short bolts on the holes in the bowl so ya dont pop a hole in it

Greg has been in and out of the hospital several more times....he is home now and doing some better but just can get a handle on what is happening to him really appreciate all the concern

IMO unless they are all but giving ya the engine turn the page and keep looking for your 540

GMAC (Greg) is home from hospital now trying to come back. I wont go into any details but is was and is very serious. We are hoping for the best and appreciate the prayers. Greg and I think the world of you guys

better talk to whoever ya decide to deal with about the harmonics with a 3 blade on the 0-360

i be ready!!!!!!

that is some good stuff right there...however dont confuse the points gap with the e gap...the points gap is measured in thousands like .018 and is the gap the points have when on the high side of the points cam...the e gap is measured in degrees like 15 degrees....it is the number of degrees the ro...

if the engine ran ok before ya took the right mag out and now it dont after ya put it back in i bet the mag is not timed right or synchronized with the left mag...you could have a broken impulse spring but the right mag viewed from the pilot seat is normally a non impulse unit on the lycoming engines

this is a single mag GPU....is that correct....hell man send the mag down to me and ill set it up and ship it back the same day just pay for the shipping...then you can fire that thing up and see what ya got

if the tooth in the sight plug is painted on the cc booster tooth then the cc booster mark must also be used for the chamfered tooth on the drive gear to properly time the mag internally you cannot use the normal mark on one side and the booster mark on the other....and the only way to check or set ...

cant get the pictures to come up....use the cc normal marks on the dist gear on both sides of the gear...the cc normal dot between the teeth should line up with the chamfered tooth on the rotor drive gear....the cc center tooth marked in red should be in the center of the sight hole....this puts the...

does the oil pressure adjustment assembly adjust internally with shims in the housing behind the spring or externally with an adjustment screw and lock nut

do you use an electric gauge with a sending unit or a true pressure gauge?

if ya want...send the mag to me ...I will just do what it takes to make it fire right so you can see what ya got engine wise just pay for shipping...if ya find ya have a good engine then I could rebuild the mag with new parts if the engine is junk then your not out the money for a rebuild...only tak...

IMO not a good idea to fire an aircraft engine of any kind without a prop...as far as the mag is concerned I would suspect moisture in the mag if there was water everywhere else in the engine...but check the points gap .018 is a nice gap and make sure your firing order is correct on the plug wires

a guy I ride with sprayed his entire rigging with WetLander primer and top coat…..it left a beautiful matte black finish and nothing sticks to it...everything just washes right off

for what its worth....I have mags...mag parts and plug wires for that engine