all factory tunes are TQ limited. (transmission life extending) all these turbo motors can make much larger TQ numbers and have more of a curve than an flat line... if the heads can flow the air the turbo can be tuned to run outta breath. GM limits airflow to make those nice flat TQ curves they disp...

lol.... lb its all good. i aint no cry baby, just love a good debate with the oldschool bb and sb guy every so often... if you run a carb this day and age ill give ya shit. its all about fun to me also, dont start thinking my panties are in a wod. these motors can either make you smile or piss you o...

lol... ive been a member of this site about 8yrs more than you for a total of 13yrs now. but what does that have to do with it. and i dont work on my own truck either, no time to deal with it since thats not my day job. yes i live in the world today and obviously you do too. i can change a tire and ...

hey ladyblackwater... can you read... it makes more TQ than the 5.3 Gen 4 and Gen 5 on 87... put 93 or E85 and you will even surpass it more. Also I agree with you to a point... if all you can work on is a carburetor and you have to bring your vehicle to a dealer just to diagnose an issue they maybe...

2.7T will swing bigger prop than Gen 4 or Gen 5 5.3L... just saying... under the curve 2.7L makes more HP.

at 3000 its only about 50HP lower than stock Gen 5 6.2L L86... lots of potential

I highly suspect this motor will become the fleet vehicle motor of choice vs the v6. So availability in the aftermarket come 2020 or 2021 will be surprising. I am an EcoTurd fan though and share Russ's opinions bc I know what these motora are capable of doing. I can turn props designed for twice the...

Yes... saw it just the other day... that 2.7 looks promising... but

Delete the DFM
the 10:1 is a bit high so may not have much to gain over stock boost levels.

Yep we try to only run our lighted whips when running switch cane and tall trails. Public waterways its nav lights only. We only run headlights and LEDs when not in the main channel to help navigate. Any light other than nav lights on the main channel will get you a ticket here in LA and TX.

Has a heater circuit designed to get me to optimal operating temp faster and force the mechanical thermostat open. not really controlling that much but just pumping heat in to make sure i dont run too cool and not the fact I am an Ecotec guy... the sensitivity you feel is the engineer talking to som...

never understand why people ask for help then argue... your mind is made up so just do it... my radiator is 8-10 away on the backside just like yours but my computer controls temp. so cant help ya anymore

my recommendation before you start moving things around, call Turnkey and ask details. that is a great group of folks. as stated LS and Ecotec motors that run on modern ECUs and EFI run 180-210 easily without issue. doesnt matter is its modded or not... if the ecu is controlling temps then you will ...

Honestly 195F is a good number if you ask me! Radiator is where it is supposed to be. I dont like motors that run too cool because that just creates condensation potential in the oil side.

I'm bias a bit though... I have an e-stat that maintains about 200F-210F running temps.

if it dont work... GMSI offers a three day for $20. find tje car year that matches the motor and you cam go on an pull all the wiring info you need to sort it out and get with a local tuner.

just checking back to see if you got things set up the way you needed them.

What I have found through many discussions is that it isn't really the large prop vs small prop... its actually air flow to the prop. Larger props move the location of grabbed air further way from all the rigging and crap that can restrict flow from getting to the prop and essentially loading the bl...

according to the dyno sheet referenced you are still climbing in HP even out to 6300 so you are leaving some power and therefore thrust on the table... but the difference since the sheet stops at 6300 is only 25HP+/- there may be more past that... cant tell unless it was dyno'd out there. Should the...

I have read every post... this is all hilarious! Here is how you solve the problem... 1. Get a gearbox that puts the prop at peak efficiency when the motor is at peak torque... measure the thrust (good luck finding that box bc those who made it are after your money not after giving you a boat that c...

It may not even start if it looses communication with the fuel pump module my recommendation for a 2.2 is to call RDM Ecotecs or ZZP and get some advice. https://www.facebook.com/rdm.ecotecs/ https://www.facebook.com/ZZPerformance/ also a new ecu is like $30-50 if yours is locked... i started over w...

I am in the process of converting my 1.4L over to external inline pump and ditching the intank because it cant handle the flow needs to E85. #1 The actual engine control ECU does not really care about fuel pressure as the sensor for fuel line pressure in the stock car normally goes to the FPCM. at l...

Long story short, my predicament is my fault, not an issue with the motors. Got rain water into the intake tract during a bad down poor and cut rings on one motor. Believe got moisture into the MAF wiring plug and it shorted the ECU so bad ECU fried the second motor. OneBFC is correct as I had my ne...

Reductions are meant to get the motor into Peak HP Range... Torque means jack shit without RPM. HP is Thrust... the trick is to get the prop in its most efficient sweet spot when HP is peak. In short, if only torque mattered everyone would be running direct drives and turning props at 3000 rpm becau...

2500 X 2.3 = 5750 but target 5200-5300 on the motor as the prop will gain 200+/- rpm on the water.

Also what is your engine curve and where does it hit peak HP. That really dictates the target rpm.

I've had engine issues or I'd say come look. I have a 1.4L on a 12x7.5 boat. My issue is in the electronics which lead to mechanical failure. They can be a pain but when they are tuned and running good it's a joy

My boat is 12x7.5 .125 bottom/transom, .100 sides, and .100 for the decking and rake .125 is usually standard thickness for aluminum boats. .190 is used on ice boats and work boats from what I have seen in TX and LA. Not sure what them Florida boys do, but I've seen some go with 0.090 all over to ke...

LTG or LNF are the way to go for sure! But he looked well decided on motor