my recommendation before you start moving things around, call Turnkey and ask details. that is a great group of folks. as stated LS and Ecotec motors that run on modern ECUs and EFI run 180-210 easily without issue. doesnt matter is its modded or not... if the ecu is controlling temps then you will ...

Honestly 195F is a good number if you ask me! Radiator is where it is supposed to be. I dont like motors that run too cool because that just creates condensation potential in the oil side.

I'm bias a bit though... I have an e-stat that maintains about 200F-210F running temps.

if it dont work... GMSI offers a three day for $20. find tje car year that matches the motor and you cam go on an pull all the wiring info you need to sort it out and get with a local tuner.

just checking back to see if you got things set up the way you needed them.

What I have found through many discussions is that it isn't really the large prop vs small prop... its actually air flow to the prop. Larger props move the location of grabbed air further way from all the rigging and crap that can restrict flow from getting to the prop and essentially loading the bl...

according to the dyno sheet referenced you are still climbing in HP even out to 6300 so you are leaving some power and therefore thrust on the table... but the difference since the sheet stops at 6300 is only 25HP+/- there may be more past that... cant tell unless it was dyno'd out there. Should the...

I have read every post... this is all hilarious! Here is how you solve the problem... 1. Get a gearbox that puts the prop at peak efficiency when the motor is at peak torque... measure the thrust (good luck finding that box bc those who made it are after your money not after giving you a boat that c...

It may not even start if it looses communication with the fuel pump module my recommendation for a 2.2 is to call RDM Ecotecs or ZZP and get some advice. https://www.facebook.com/rdm.ecotecs/ https://www.facebook.com/ZZPerformance/ also a new ecu is like $30-50 if yours is locked... i started over w...

I am in the process of converting my 1.4L over to external inline pump and ditching the intank because it cant handle the flow needs to E85. #1 The actual engine control ECU does not really care about fuel pressure as the sensor for fuel line pressure in the stock car normally goes to the FPCM. at l...

Long story short, my predicament is my fault, not an issue with the motors. Got rain water into the intake tract during a bad down poor and cut rings on one motor. Believe got moisture into the MAF wiring plug and it shorted the ECU so bad ECU fried the second motor. OneBFC is correct as I had my ne...

Reductions are meant to get the motor into Peak HP Range... Torque means jack shit without RPM. HP is Thrust... the trick is to get the prop in its most efficient sweet spot when HP is peak. In short, if only torque mattered everyone would be running direct drives and turning props at 3000 rpm becau...

2500 X 2.3 = 5750 but target 5200-5300 on the motor as the prop will gain 200+/- rpm on the water.

Also what is your engine curve and where does it hit peak HP. That really dictates the target rpm.

I've had engine issues or I'd say come look. I have a 1.4L on a 12x7.5 boat. My issue is in the electronics which lead to mechanical failure. They can be a pain but when they are tuned and running good it's a joy

My boat is 12x7.5 .125 bottom/transom, .100 sides, and .100 for the decking and rake .125 is usually standard thickness for aluminum boats. .190 is used on ice boats and work boats from what I have seen in TX and LA. Not sure what them Florida boys do, but I've seen some go with 0.090 all over to ke...

LTG or LNF are the way to go for sure! But he looked well decided on motor

Talk to Shane Lavalette at Dynamarine or Will Sikes at PB Performance. These two guys are the types to like new and different boats. Good Luck as I here CBM does good work.

Is it a 3bld 70 or a 2bld.... 3 bld id say 16-18 but two blade you may wanna start at 20+

I spin a 68 SS 3bld at 13deg with 180hp

454 HO makes about 300HP at 3000rpm

gator7272 wrote:Guess I shoulda waited a couple a years, might've saved me some heartache and aggravation

I run the 1.4L and may upgrade in a few years...

For those looking to build a boat with one looks like Chevy is supplying a universal (stand alone) kit for these motors now.

Part # 19328839 - CPP LTG RWD Controller Kit - Contains Pre-Programmed ECU, Harness, Sensors

Motor is Part # 19328837 if you want new and not Junk yard

Rent? He owns that one... he may take you for a ride if you ask.

How is the fuel system set up? Returnless fuel rail or constant regulated return? Water fuel separator or plain fuel filter?

Try a motor with VVT. Feel the kick

Good email Darrin. Steve and I had the same conversation at Freedom Ride this year.

Good luck on your build. Bout to get back into my 1.4L and get more power (230+)... plan is to run an 80" 2-bld older model Whirlwind Stump Puller I got for a good price.

Sensenich j series the same as whirlwind blade that is big copy cat hub is same and lock on the hub is same what next !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whirlwind and Sensenich discussed openly and decided to standardize on that hub design for the industry in the interest of the consumer. So yes its a "copy" so to ...