180 lycoming help

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JD
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Post by JD » Sat Jul 08, 2006 7:49 pm

i'LL HAVE TO GET A PICTURE/COMPUTER GURU TO DO THAT. Maybe next week. It did deisel awhile back. It was idleing at 800 rpm and I lowered it to 550 and added acetone to the gas and it quit running on.

JD
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Post by JD » Sat Jul 08, 2006 10:34 pm

dblj006, I got the wife to go look at the number on top of the motor right next to the seam. It's L95155, do you think that is any kind of help identifying this thing?

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Whitebear
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Post by Whitebear » Sat Jul 08, 2006 10:51 pm

I'm thinking of doing a 4 banger GPU with some 520s but I'm wondering whats the biggest jugs ya can hang off a GPU?

I "think" the O-360 uses the same jugs as an O-540, but I'm wondering about that too, if there isn't something bigger ya can hang off an O-360 too.

Scotty
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dblj006
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Post by dblj006 » Sun Jul 09, 2006 9:18 am

JD,
I sent you another P.M. check it out, hope it helps.

About 0-360 and 0-540 jugs I would defer to the pros as to what you can
do there. I do know they are the same cubic inch, 90. And with a combonation of piston, aspiration(carb, injection, turbo, etc) you make horsepower. And then there are the different cylinders, upstack 540's, parallel valve, and angle valve.

By using the Continental cylinder conversion I wonder if the rods are different, that would maybe become a "stroked engine". I have heard of this on 0-320's to make them 0-340's(in experimental aviation) and I
know a guy that had 180 rods in a 125. I would like to know the advantage myself of the Continental cylinders. I believe the cylinders are a smaller cubic inch, do they have bigger valves or a better combustion chamber? If they have a better air flow rate that would help equal H.P.
right there.

JD
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Post by JD » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:55 am

I didn't have a lot of time to fool with it while I was off, but I moved the prop to get up to 3050 rpm's all the way down to 2500 rpm's and the boat actually moved at the lower rpm. I will try adding another degree to bring it down to 2400 when I get a chance to see if that will get it moving on a cut lawn. I also advanced the timing at the mags(both) as far as the slot would let me. It still starts right up even when cold. Also, I found the oil regulating spring but it had no washers, so I'm going to have to cut the spring a little at a time to try to get the oil pressure down to about 60 or so at WOT. It now runs 60 at idle and 100 at WOT.

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Post by Tide Runner » Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:42 am

JD, I/m thinking that your prop is just not long enough and your having to put alot of pitch in it to make up for that... your motor will have to turn around 2800-2850 to make all its HP. I don't know anything about your hull eg: whats on the bottom how heavy how long ect... which all will make a difference. you said that your cage was too short for a longer prop you might want to put some spacer's on the bottom of the cage to raise it up to the height you need... JMO
Wayne

JD
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Post by JD » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:01 am

Tiderunner, Is's a side thing more than height.

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Post by Tide Runner » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:07 am

JD, your boat must be really narrow? or is the cage just set in that far? I have a friend that have a 68" whirlwind 3 blade set on 14 on a 220 gpu on a old alum.12 ft bear hull with polly. the motor is old and about wore out but he can load up 2-3 people and run dry stop and go .

Tide Runner
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Post by Tide Runner » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:26 am

JD, after going back and reading some of the post's [i should have done that from the start] I agree with whitebear your hull just maynot be wide enough to run dry. jmo.

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Post by JD » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:33 am

Tide Runner, I jacked the two Jackbolts down to put a bow in the center of the hull and it now rocks on the center of the bottom when working the stick at WOT an the boat barely walks forward. With a new poly bottom it just seems it should move,

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Post by Tide Runner » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:46 am

JD, I agree you would think that it would go... rocking back and forth but somethings not quite right try putting your boat on somthing harder like hard dirt or a road if you can and see if it will go then it maybe that your grass has a lilltle cushion in it thats keeping it stuck down a little like our sticky grass or floating islands here just a thought... keep working on it you'll get it unless the overall weight of you boat is just too much.

JD
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Post by JD » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:46 pm

BACK TO CHECKING FOR CAM WEAR! It's been awhile. but I finally got some valve cover gaskets and pulled the covers off and checked the rocker arms where the pushrod comes into it. I got .310 at the push rod on one and .265 average on the other three intakes. And on the exhaust I got .315 average on 3 of them and on one I got .280. I just don't know how much the hydraulic lifters can skew this method of measuring cam wear. If I put pressure one a particular lifter and leave it for a few hours would this BLEED that lifter so that I could measure the clearance plus the actual lift??? Any thoughts appreciated. Also another boat that a mechanic that I know said he ran across another 180 this week that had low compression pistons in it and he ordered the regular ones with rings to put back in it. Customer brought it to him complaining of lack of power. I'll post the results later when I find out if it helped out.

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Post by kb27_99 » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:17 pm

JD,

What part of Louisiana are you in? I am in New Iberia and would be more than happy to check compression and timing for you. I have an aircraft mag sink box for timing and a differential tester to get a true compression reading. Also have cylinder wrenches if you want to take it that far.


I had a 0320 before my 540 and it ran the hill fine with a light load, that baby should have no problem.





Kevin

JD
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Post by JD » Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:14 pm

Kevin, I live in Port Vincent about 20 miles south of Baton Rouge. I appreciate the offer, but I just had timing and compression checked. Timing was 25btdc and compression ran from 125 to 135. I may have low compression pistons or a worn cam....still investigating. I have been told you have to pull a cylinder to check for cam wear.

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