lycoming 0-320 overheating

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lilteo
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lycoming 0-320 overheating

Post by lilteo » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:53 am

Hi! I am writing from Nebraska to get advice. Heard about this site from a member of the Fremont (NE) Airboat Club. Not too many aircraft engines around here so it is hard to get parts or have work done . Having a problem with overheating when outside temp>80. Runs hot-- 240-250 degrees. 150 HP with high compression pistons (160 HP).

Does anyone have any suggestions/solutions?
Thanks!
LILTEO

Also, are there any good parts catalogs to get in the mail?

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Whitebear
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Post by Whitebear » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:26 am

Welcome to the forum lilteo

Stick with us and we will try to help some.

I had a 90 GPU that would get hot and cow down when running hard dry. Actually it was my kids boat. Our solution, though not intended for this reason, was a Slick-50 Treatment. I know some folks don't like it but in my case the little thing went from cowing down to perfect running in really bad ass dry running. After a mile of this stuff you could still put your hand on the cylinder fins and not get blistered, Hot yes but it wouldnt even blister ya.

Another solution I see frequently mentioned is air ducts on the cylinders. There may even be a thread or two here on that. May also be some pictures in the gallery of them.

Mike Thurman is kinda an expert on aircraft engines, might get with him on this as well.

I am assuning your timing etc. is spot on, you got the right oil in it, and the oil cooler isn't clogged or obstructed. You might try richening up the mixture a little too if you have an aircraft carb on it.

A bigger oil cooler is always a good thing. There are some really good after market coolers. Some have been mentioned here, Ill try to get ya a link in the mean time.

Someone else will chime in shortly with other experiences. Stick around.

Check out the site supporter option at the bottom right of your page or under the stars on anyones name who has stars, or under your name where it says Southern Airboat Member. Great way to keep the site up and running :)

Scotty
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Des Moines Boater
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Post by Des Moines Boater » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:56 am

I ran into the same heating problems on every boat I've bought from Florida. I guess they just run them hot until they quit running. My current boat has a Lycoming O-320 and it ran hot until I put a huge oil cooler on it. I had to use the mixture control to shut it off so it wouldn't diesel. Now I can shut off with the mags.

The timing is important too and you could add a shroud. I haven't put a shroud on mine yet but may after I get a new hull. My oil temp went from 240 plus to 160 max with the new cooler. I have a CHT guage I connect to one cylinder so I can monitor the cylinder head temps which is more important than the oil temp. If I get temps over 400 f then I back off a little and run all day long or I stop and fish for awhile and let it cool off.

What kind of oil cooler do you have?

Bring the Boat over to Des Moines. We'll fix the heat problem and run the Des Moines River for awhile.

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Whitebear
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Post by Whitebear » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:33 am

Here is a link to some oil coolers. There are some that have been mentioned in this forum, but I can't seem to find them right now.

http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page07.html

Anybody remember the thread where links for really good oil coolers was posted?

Scotty
"The Constitution is not so the government can restrain the people, it is so the people can restrain the government." Patrick Henry
The government cannot give anything --
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Des Moines Boater
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Post by Des Moines Boater » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:41 am

There is a very good Hayden oil cooler on E-bay with 2 days to go that is currently at $6.07. It's a nice 6 row that should hold about a quart of oil. They have the same one with a Buy-It-Now for $95.00. That's not a bad price for either one. I have the same one on my boat except I have a 9 row. Mine is more than I need but more doesn't hurt.

I use regular 10-40 motor oil as well. I use the AeroShell in my planes but not in my boat.

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leo_081103
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Post by leo_081103 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:53 am

-
Last edited by leo_081103 on Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
14 ft x 7.5 ft FG 5/16" UHMW-PE
150hp 1.6L (98cu.in.) Toyota 4AGE-20V
78" 3 Blade ground adjustable Wood prop (Home built)
78" 3 Blade Sensenich R Series
3.75:1 Belt Drive (Home built)

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cowboy
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Post by cowboy » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:58 am


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dblj006
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Post by dblj006 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 11:51 am

What are you running for plugs? Higher the compression the colder the plug, right? Just an idea....

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dblj006
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Post by dblj006 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:21 pm


lilteo
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Post by lilteo » Wed Aug 23, 2006 12:43 am

Thanks for all the help. Just a few more questions. I am actually writing you for my dad. He has no access to the internet and lives 30 miles from me so we are trying to do this over the phone.

Back to this lycoming 0-320 overheating issue. I am going to try and answer all of your ?'s as best as I can. He just had the timing checked and all was well. The rpm is 27-2800 at static. It overheats when the temp outside is >80. The cooler he has on it now is a northern(?) and he thinks it is 10x12x1 1/2". He is just questioning what size he needs to upgrade to and I quess maybe looking at a Hayden cooler? Any ideas where to get one besides e-bay? Just looking for a cheap fix!

thanks again for all of your help--this site is great!!!

Sara (lilteo)

thanks for the catalog list! Are any better than others if we were to buy just one?

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Des Moines Boater
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Post by Des Moines Boater » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:22 am

Ebay may be your best bet. The one they have with a buy it now for $95 looks to be new in the original box. It's the six row and will more than pay for itself. No need to cook a perfectly good engine.

If you need help with the install, I'm not that far away. Bring it over and I'll be happy to help you. We can double check the compression and timing at the same time.

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leo_081103
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Post by leo_081103 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:54 am

-
Last edited by leo_081103 on Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
14 ft x 7.5 ft FG 5/16" UHMW-PE
150hp 1.6L (98cu.in.) Toyota 4AGE-20V
78" 3 Blade ground adjustable Wood prop (Home built)
78" 3 Blade Sensenich R Series
3.75:1 Belt Drive (Home built)

TSnake
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Post by TSnake » Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:48 pm

Where do you guys place your temperature sensor? I've got an O-470 GPU with a six row cooler, and I never see the temperature get over 130. My sensor is installed at the bottom of the oil pan. I have not checked the gauge for accuracy. I'm a little worried that the oil is not getting hot enough. Maybe I need to push the boat harder.

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dblj006
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Post by dblj006 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 5:05 pm

What is your elevation? Florida boats operate at sea level so most aircraft boats are tied off at the lean/rich lever. It does sound like it's running lean. Your plugs are definitely getting to hot and will continue igniting fuel if you are trying to shut down using the mags. The lean/rich mixture control lever on the carb should be used to shut down and thus eleviate run on. This will stop the flow of the fuel.

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leo_081103
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Post by leo_081103 » Thu Aug 24, 2006 1:03 pm

-
14 ft x 7.5 ft FG 5/16" UHMW-PE
150hp 1.6L (98cu.in.) Toyota 4AGE-20V
78" 3 Blade ground adjustable Wood prop (Home built)
78" 3 Blade Sensenich R Series
3.75:1 Belt Drive (Home built)

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