Any 7.3 mechanics

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CONTINENTAL CRACKER
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Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by CONTINENTAL CRACKER »

I have a 1995 7.3 and it asks like it runs out of fuel. It has fuel in the fuel filter bowel. It will start after cranking it over for a few but then it acts up like it's running out of fuel again. It has a new fuel pump with banjos bolt washers and sleeves on the fuel lines going into the heads.i also put a brand new fuel filter set up on it and a wiring harness.
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bbstimey
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by bbstimey »

there is a port on the back side of filter housing, check your fuel pressure there
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Chaseh
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by Chaseh »

Leave the filter cap off and turn key over to engage pump. If it sprays out fuel, you likely do not have a fuel issue (anymore)

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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by Scarecrow »

Sounds like it might be the cam sensor, 25 dollar part and 15 minutes to change, google it. :rebel:

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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by Hog-Wild »

That's what I was thinking, cam sensor.
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HASBEEN
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by HASBEEN »

We just had a similar issue on an older version 7.3 (1993) in an old ranch truck. It only gets run for a few months a year during hunting season so we`ve never tried to fix it since it started acting up 4 or 5 years ago.
I gave it to a young man that wanted to put it back on the road as a daily driver and he found the problem.
The rubber fuel line at the tank (before it goes to hard line) was swollen up and deteriorated. Looked like it shouldn`t have been able to run at all. Replaced it.....no more suckin air. If your truck has dual tanks, the switching valve and hoses are a known source of problems sucking air as well.

The rubber hose is a pretty cheap attempt even if it`s not the problem.

Good Luck.

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CONTINENTAL CRACKER
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by CONTINENTAL CRACKER »

I have done a lot of reading on power stroke web site. Sounds like the high preSure oil pump,witch also runs you fuel reassure fuel. That makes a lot of sense. Being everything has fuel and it acts like it is running of fuel. I am just tired of putting parts on it and wasting a lot of money on parts that did not fix it. It does not have any fuel pump problems.
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bbstimey
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by bbstimey »

needs a minimum of 500 psi oil pressure to fire. could be icp sensor going bad, its just to the right of fuel bowl. also could be ipr valve which is in hpop under fuel bowl these are both cheaper than hpop sso i would rule them out first.
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bbstimey
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by bbstimey »

another good possibility would be injector o-rings, when engine heats up allowing to much oil by reducing pressure to fire injectors
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by billybob »

It's either the fuel pump mounted on the frame on the passenger side, the cam sensor or the speed sensor. Been there done that. Also check where the lines go into the top by the filter. O rings go bad and suck air.
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diesel250rr
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by diesel250rr »

It's a 95 so it has a mechanical pump in the valley check your oil low oil will cause the same issue no fuel

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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by Crackerlife »

While it's running at idle spray some brake clean around the fuel lines and seal just to make sure there are no leaks. You will hear a change in the engine if you hit the right spot. If all that is good. Cam position sensor is more then likely. You can pull codes doing a paper clip method, and counting the engine light.

diesel250rr
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by diesel250rr »

If you have the intake open or any leaks and break cleaner gets down the intake it will Rev up don't use to much so it doesn't run away and is this idi or a di

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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by MaxxForce »

ICP sensor is a common problem, Wait until it's acting up and unplug it if engine smooths out or runs better it is bad, as said above cam sensor will cause those same symptoms.
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crowhater
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Re: Any 7.3 mechanics

Post by crowhater »

All good advise. First thing you need to do is verify it is a fuel pressure issue, check your fuel pressure. If it is fuel pressure you should check your fuel pressure spring, you should have 20psi at idle if you don't you need to either replace the spring or shim it with a BB. The fuel lines are another issue and Ford will whack you in the shins if you try to purchase new factory lines. I pulled all of the factory fuel lines off and replaced them with Parker push loc hose, the hose is cheap, comes in any color, and it can handle the pressure. I have also seen fuel issues over the small screen in the fuel canister. If you pull your filter out of the canister and drain the fuel you will see a couple holes in the side of the canister. One of these holes has a small screen inside it and this screen can get clogged over time. A can of carb cleaner and Q-tips will get it clean. Every fuel filter change I would fill my fuel canister with Seafoam so the truck would pull strait seafoam and it would clean everything.

The other thing I have seen is the injector solenoid located on the front of the intake ( driver side ) in the intake valley to the right of the fuel canister. your plug connects to a sleeve that is on the shaft of this with a thin stamp steel nut screwed on the back. if this nut comes off it will allow this sleeve to slide back on the shaft when you take off and the truck acts like it is starving for fuel until you stop and the sleeve slides back forward.

If the injector solenoid is bad and you must replace it you will find that its impossible to get a 1 1/4" wrench in there and the special tool is high $. I took a cheap Harbor freight socket and welded a 3/4 nut to the end of it. you unhook your electrical plug, unscrew the flat nut, slide off the sleeve the plug was connected to then slide your socket over the Solenoid and use a 3/4 wrench to unscrew the solenoid.

I am not 100% sure it is 1 1/4" so check first, I would have to look at my socket.

Cam sensors are cheap and easy to change. I have seen bad cam sensors do many different things so I never 100% rule them out. Anyone who has owned a 7.3 for any length of time knows you should always have a spare cam sensor in the glove box. Cam sensor is located on the front of the engine above the balancer on the passenger side. it has a 10mm bolt that holds it in with a metal fork. The fork is attached to the sensor and they will come out together. once the bolt is out just twist it side to side until you get it out and make sure you oil the O-ring of the new one to help you get it in.
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