ECOTEC 2.0 LTG SWAP

[FISHSTICKER]

Other two are the same.

[FISHSTICKER]

Also a question for you AN fitting experts. They sent me the wrong fittings. Instead of the AN hose x O RING they sent the hose x AN FLARE. Now after comparing the two different types of fittings the threads are the same and they both have the relief cut against the shoulder for a o ring to sit...... so can I just put some viton o rings on the flare fittings and go with it?



Like this? These will screw into the ports on the fuel pressure regulator.

[FISHSTICKER]

I found my new happy place. You have not truly lived until you have found the joy of stuffing AN stainless braided hose into AN fittings. Why on earth do they make it so hard? How about adding a small cone on the end of the damn fitting to get the shit started! I am pretty certain a small design change would reduce the effort exponentially.....after about 4 tries I started using a small thin blade flat head screw driver and that gets the job of stuffing the stray stainless strands in the fitting done. No fun....... and wrapping the hose with tape and cutting on the band saw was a breeze. Beautiful cut. Zero fraying.....but 0.1 seconds after you pull the tape off the hose (from JEGS) puffs out like crazy.



Finally got it going after a few tries. The hose is 6 thou larger than the damn hole in the fitting it has to go in.

[FISHSTICKER]

Russell makes a fine adapter to go from GM quick connect to AN.

And that stainless high pressure GM fuel pump looks sexy after you pull the cover off.

[FISHSTICKER]

Had to order a few more fittings and some hose. Might mess with the harness this weekend. And weld some bracing on the engine stand so I can run it without it ending up on the ground.



Tig can almost make you look like a welder.

[FISHSTICKER]

Got the K&N mounted

[br,lc,LA]

Looking top notch!

[OneBFC]

Got the K&N mounted

You will want a good 16 inches of straight pipe before the MAF. If you dont, you will regret it later and won't even know why the engine idles like crap and stumbles, misfires and all kinds of goofy behavior.

16 or more is best. 12 is absolute minimum. As you go lower symptoms will exponentially get worse.

Looking good overall!

[FISHSTICKER]

Well hell. I hope you’re wrong.

[OneBFC]

If you run into issues, then at least you have an idea where to look. I also hope in your case the 12 inch min rule doesn't apply.

I have seen it so often that I always recommend it.

I am looking forward to seeing it done!

[FISHSTICKER]

What's crazy is they sell that crap to the public. Apparently they don't do much R&D anymore. I was looking last night at an option. I can build an aluminum intake that runs horizontal across the front/top and turn it back toward the prop on the passenger side. I could get more than 16" like that. I do appreciate you pointing that issue out because you are right I would never have thought to look there. What about the fuel pressure regulator? You think I have the ports identified correctly? The left and right are interchangeable in/out? No need for the vacuum port?

[FISHSTICKER]

For the exhaust. Just use the stainless band clamps? Is there any advantage to the VBAND set up? besides easier to assemble / disassemble? looks like the VBAND setups leak most of the time.

[br,lc,LA]

I have no issues with idle using a short ram intake... but K&N filters suck... dry types are much better for MAF

Exhaust. Flange it to the turbo and hard pipe it all the way with a single flex joint close to the motor. Weld it out

[hogdoggin]

I had a problem with a short intake as Russ mentioned. Idle was crap no matter how much tuning we did to maf always had a idle issue. And everything got worse when I went to big turbo. Fuel pressure regulator in and out either side. Return out bottom. Cap vacuum port. I have mine set a 70 psi. Also make sure your return going into fuel tank goes all the way down to bottom of fuel tank. Set it up like a pick up tube would be. That way you won't have a foaming issue. Good luck I love my ecoturd.

[hogdoggin]

To explain a little more on the intake. Problems I had. Maf to close to airfliter strong side winds at idle would make the engine stumble bad. Maf to close to the turbo is where I had tuning issues for idle. It's like it would pick up turbulence from the turbo when you would stab the gas and let out idle would go to crap. Idle like crap for a minute than It would clear up. I put more straight before turbo and some straight after fliter before maf all issues gone. Something to think about this was a big headache for me for a while.

[hogdoggin]

Also I noticed you have Teflon tape on the fuel pressure gauge be very careful what you put on the threads. I used some pipe thread dope. Ended up with a stuck fuel injector #3 cylinder full of fuel not a good thing. Just a heads up.

[FISHSTICKER]

So.....too close to the turbo could be an issue also. What would you recommend as a min distance there? I thought about using a liquid sealant on the npt threads for the gauge but that thought crossed my mind and decided to go with the tape. hogdoggin do you have a pic of your intake? I have K&N filters on several things but never did oil them. That was my plan here. I was goign to run a pre filter/ sock on it too.

[hogdoggin]

Yes to close is where I had most of my problems. I had the maf 5" from the inlet of turbo. I believe it was picking up back turbulence from turbo. After tuning the maf we had the idle good. Than once it made boost it would idle like crap. So long story short the maf is 16 " from inlet and from air filter to maf is about 8" I have a 45 degree turn before filter. I ran it like you mentioned above comes out of turbo with about 45 degree turn and across front of engine to other side with a 45 degree turn down to airfliter .

[FISHSTICKER]

Thanks for the info hogdoggin.

Well, unsheathed the wiring harness to see if I could pull the few plug wires that I had to adjust further out to get them to the right location without having to cut and solder. I was concerned about that especially since one of them had a twisted pair in there....now I don’t remember what a twisted pair is for but I remember it being more special. Happy to say it was a success. And I made some location adjustments on the harness that relieved the strain I was worried about on a few plugs. Did I say there are a bunch of sensors?

Surgery begins

[FISHSTICKER]

All plugs now reach

[FISHSTICKER]

Routing looking a little better



Not really looking better but working better. And remainder of harness pointed in the right direction.

[FISHSTICKER]

I might pull all the covering off the harness on this side after successfull startup and try to make this all fit better.

[DWATTS72]

[Slidin Gator]

I was concerned about that especially since one of them had a twisted pair in there....now I don’t remember what a twisted pair is for but I remember it being more special.

Twisted pair (TWP in short hand) is used to cancel out stray emf on a sensor line without adding grounded shielding. The basic concept is that the true signal is the dc voltage differential between the two wires. By twisting them, any external emf applied to the wires results in equal voltage change to both wires, but the voltage difference between the two wire remains the same (emf is canceled out).

I’m not sure if this explanation makes sense or not, but generally TWP’s are used on 0-5 and 0-10V sensors like the MAF, MAP, temp, pressure etc. You want to minimize the length of untwisted wire in your connections and keep the untwisted sections away from emf (Electro Magnetic Field radiation) sources like ignition coils, starters, solenoids, relays etc.

Just think of it like this, anywhere the wires are not twisted is a potential source of error in the signal. Wire it right, no issues. Wire it wrong and you are calling in a O scope to view the signal. Add in the turbulence opportunities described above and you are doing Some serious troubleshooting. Been there!

Makes one appreciate the simplicity of a carb. The things we do for efficiency.

[FISHSTICKER]

Great explanation. So what do you think about extending wires in a harness via solder? Assuming a well made connection, do you think that increases the opportunity for a poor signal from a sensor? MAF , O2 ....