ECOTEC 2.0 LTG SWAP

[br,lc,LA]

Very easy to pull the wires out if you have the time and desire just make sure you get a pack of plugs. They connectors are Molex mx123... here is a link to the plugs

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3044542

There are lots of YouTube video and Google mx123 manual and the full manual is online

[FISHSTICKER]

So those are the proper plugs to keep the connector sealed up after you remove a wire? Thanks.

[FISHSTICKER]

On a side note....If you don’t hate yourself and you want to try your luck with AN fittings. I strongly recommend you buy the below tool. You can do the job without it but it’s much easier with it.


KOUL TOOLS.

[FISHSTICKER]

All my fuel lines are done

[FISHSTICKER]

And I have a new toy. A cheap tube notcher.

[FISHSTICKER]

I actually have more than one new toy.

[FISHSTICKER]

I’m a little paranoid about the fuel lines. I flushed them real well with water (hose pipe) and then air but I’m still concerned that a small particle of stainless or rubber will get to an injector and cause problems. What do you think about adding one of those AN fittings that are also a filter right at the high pressure fuel pump? Overkill?

[FISHSTICKER]

Like this

[FISHSTICKER]

Any recommendations on where to buy bulk heater hose/ radiator hose?

[FISHSTICKER]

Found some on EBAY.

[FISHSTICKER]

The flow direction thru the cooling system has me a Little confused. I originally thought that the connection to the water pump was where water entered the motor directly into the side of the block...this is where the thermostats is......then water would exit at the back of the motor and back to the radiator. However, there is another (what I believe to be an exit) from the water pump along the side of the block that travels to the plastic coolant hub at the rear of the motor. This hub also has three other connectors. I assumed the larger one was return to the radiator, one would go to an expansion tank and the other....I don’t know. I can’t find a diagram. Short of going test drive a car and examining it I’m kind of stuck. The line along the side of the block connects to the oil cooler (that circulates around the filter) line.


Hub at back of motor

Below the largest open port is the coolant line that also comes from the water pump (left side of photo).

[OneBFC]

Regarding in line filter.

If it flows 50gph or more at 80 psi then I would say its viable.

Issue to keep in mind is pressure drop across a small filter like that. If it's too restrictive, your lift pump may not be able to keep the high pressure pump fed at high flow rates.

The high side pump needs to have 70psi present on demand whenever it wants it. If the high side needs that 70 and doesn't have it, you will see high pressure drop and your engine will lean out.

What really happens is the ecu detects the pressure drop and starts holding the injector open longer automatically. With DI motors the injection time window is incredibly small. Once the injector is open for more than 6 to 7 ms (milliseconds, 0.001 seconds is 1 ms), the combustion event starts to degrade rapidly until it starts misfiring.

In essence this saves the motor from a lean out condition, but, it's not something to rely on.

[FISHSTICKER]

This is how I think the coolant goes to and from the oil filter cooler and the turbo.



Oil cooler

[FISHSTICKER]

Turbo



Coolant return goes along the top of the motor and to the rear passenger side...this line was cut at the back of the motor but I have seen photos that look like it would have connected to a plastic coolant tank with a cap (like where you would add coolant).

[FISHSTICKER]

Would not have suspected the coolant return from the turbo would have connected to the fill reservoir.

[Slidin Gator]

Put the in line fuel filter in for initial start up. When you feel good about it remove it.

I spent a lot of time years ago convincing management that spending a day of flushing new hydraulic systems would save two days of replacing new valves. Ultimately it turned out I was right.

[FISHSTICKER]

I think that’s what I will do Gator. Put one inline for startup and running at low to mid RPM on the test stand and after running some fuel thru pull it off and check it. I might see if I can get a unit that disassembles so I can check for debris. Russ any idea what the fuel flow rate would be at say 250hp?

[FISHSTICKER]

Found one that will flow 130GPH @ 75 psi. That should be overkill.

[br,lc,LA]

Injector fouling issues are rare as long as you filter pre pump. You can do it post pump but I only know of one fuel/water separator designed for mid-pressure

[FISHSTICKER]

I was just worried about debris stuck in a line from the band saw or from manufacturing.

I made a revelation about some of my coolant hub connectors. Completely forgot about the hoses to the heater core. Still don’t know what goes where yet.

[FISHSTICKER]

Oh, the coolant line along the side of the block I believe to be a bypass line until the thermostat opens.

I believe the port pointing out the back of the block is to the heater core and the one pointing to the passenger side is the return from the heater core.

[FISHSTICKER]

All you old farts who have not bought a new welding hood in 15 years. Let me tell you the tec has come a long way. I can see again! 4C is the shit!

[FISHSTICKER]

What is the minimum clearance you would recommend prop/cage? I’m thinking 2”.

[br,lc,LA]

Ive run 1.5 but 2 is good, 6" is what most shoot for

[FISHSTICKER]

I have about 4" clear right now with the 73" prop. So without a new cage I will be limited to 76" if im ok with 2" clearance. I was thinking of going with a 74" and calling it good. How much difference would 1" make..............