Engine Coolant Burp

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Dockside Dave
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Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

I had to replace the water pump on the LS. I removed about 3 1/2 to 4 gallons of coolant. I have been able to get 2 1/2 gallons back into the system. What the best way to burp the remaining air from the block. I have attached a photograph of the coolant system for reference.

The expansion box is located at the top of the cage with a line running into the return port of the water pump.

PS.... There is no thermostat.
Attachments
Water Pump
Water Pump
Coolant Flow
Coolant Flow

unforgiven11B
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by unforgiven11B »

I had a similar issue with mine however it’s plumbing is different. Your best bet disconnect the big black hose going into the pump and fill until it comes out there. Then I’d run at idle and top off, reconnect and finish filling through burp tank.

hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

Crack the steam lines on the heads. Should get most of the air out.
Screenshot_2019-08-04-11-56-39.png
One of these help bleed air out while running. Curious why no thermostat, fuel injected motors like to have steady regulated temps.
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Dockside Dave
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

It was built by CBM out of California. Never had a thermostat. With a total of 80 run hours. It always ran about 160 degrees.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Slidin Gator »

Dockside Dave wrote:It was built by CBM out of California. Never had a thermostat. With a total of 80 run hours. It always ran about 160 degrees.
Just added CBM to my black list. HD is right, 160 is way too low. Check your plugs, I bet they are black with soot running rich. Put a thermostat in that thing, at least a 190. Drill a couple of 1/8” holes in it to help burb out air. Those motors run optimum at 200-210, just check the dash info on any LS Powered vehicle and see where they run from the factory.

Change the oil too, it’s gotta be full of water since it’s not running hot enough to boil out the condensation.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
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Dockside Dave
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

Not sure that CBM doesn't require a thermostat, may have been the choice of first owner.

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hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

Probably make more power with higher temps. I run a self learning system on my 408 windsor and it doesn't get to settle down til it hits 172 temp.
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unforgiven11B
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by unforgiven11B »

200-210? I’ll call bs on that all day. Mine don’t touch 190-200 and a water thunder won’t touch 175. So I guess all of Dave’s engines have fouled plugs and water in the oil. Stick to a/c’s

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Slidin Gator »

Dockside Dave wrote:Not sure that CBM doesn't require a thermostat, may have been the choice of first owner.
10-4 Dockside, I don't want to bad mouth someone that does not deserve it for sure.

Had an old guy tell me years ago that the ideal engine wouldn't need any cooling, it would be perfectly insulated and just take the heat, 2000 degrees or whatever. Heat out the radiator etc. is simply wasted power. A perfect example is Top Fuel, they don't even run a radiator, just a whole bunch of cold fuel in. Of course we all realize the thing still has to last. The newer motors are built to run higher temps where the older stuff would blow head gaskets etc. If built correctly the cooling system will over cool under less than the worst case scenario and the job of the thermostat is to regulate temp to the moma bea (just right) condition. The only reason to pull a thermostat is to keep the motor alive until you can get home and fix things right, 260 and you are still burning up the motor.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
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Slidin Gator
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Slidin Gator »

unforgiven11B wrote:200-210? I’ll call bs on that all day. Mine don’t touch 190-200 and a water thunder won’t touch 175. So I guess all of Dave’s engines have fouled plugs and water in the oil. Stick to a/c’s
I didn't think there would be a consensus, but GM seems to agree. Like I said, thumb through the engine status display on a newer truck/car and see what the coolant temp is running while tooling to work with no load. My stuff runs around 205, unloaded or haulin.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

Not sure 200-210 is the answer. I believe the higher temps from the manufacturer has to do with emissions. My 13 Silverado runs 210 no matter what I'm doing. I like to see mine running between 180 and 200. Fitech sets the closed loop at 172. I run a 180 stat. I do however believe 160 is too cold, but thats just my opinion.
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Slidin Gator
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Slidin Gator »

hdsadey wrote:Not sure 200-210 is the answer. I believe the higher temps from the manufacturer has to do with emissions. My 13 Silverado runs 210 no matter what I'm doing. I like to see mine running between 180 and 200. Fitech sets the closed loop at 172. I run a 180 stat. I do however believe 160 is too cold, but thats just my opinion.
160 is too cold, that is a fact. 210 is for emissions and efficiency, kinda one and the same. I can't speak for Unforgiven or Dave, all I can say is what I do and what works for me.

My stuff runs 205-210 and has since I wised up years ago, that's a fact. Another fact is that I have not had a blown head gasket or cracked a head on a water cooled motor since 84. I have cracked a couple of air cooled heads since, but only because they hit the water hot and spinning, if you know what I mean.

My swamp buggy vortec runs a steady 210 once I warm her up, at least until I dunk her underwater, then she drops to 160 and starts to run rich. Eventually I get to shallower water and she climbs back to 210 like she should. Then I drive to the next hole and submerge her again. That's something like 50 times a day all season. Sometimes I submerge her hot into a hole deeper than the intake. Then I have to call a buddy and we leave her underwater all night, go to camp, get drunk and tell lies. The next morning we go pull the bi%$h out, pull the plugs to blow out the water, change the oil and crank her up. Usually I'm in a rush cause we let the dogs go take a Sh&ft and they ran off and found a hog or something. By the afternoon the water is gone from the oil, unless I repeat the deep pond stuff.

My airboat engine has a Vernatherm, it's a fancy name for a thermostat on the oil circuit and it opens at 180. It's purpose is to keep the oil above 180 so the oil viscosity is right and evaporate condensation. Just like CM guys, lot's of AC folks incorrectly think cold oil is better too.

As for sticking to AC, I will do what I want, kiss my prop if you can find me.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by unforgiven11B »

Never said 160 was a good for a engine. You need to watch your mouth mofo, finding you ain’t a problem. Believe me I’m not the one you want hunting for you! Your bi@&h a$$ would shit your pants. Talk what you want behind a keyboard I’ll meet anytime anyplace guaranteed

hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

Dayum that took a turn for the worst right quick! Sorry I asked the question about the thermostat.
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One Eyed Gator
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by One Eyed Gator »

If your motor is using the 4 corner steam vent setup as early stock LS take the hose off the steam vent tube and fill it till you get water out of the tube. If it is blocked un-bolt the plug and do the same thing.

I also added a piece SS tune inline with a fitting welded to it. It is the highest point on my motor and that is connected to my expansion tank.

GM thermostats are I think 180 or 189 degrees and i would agree motors do make more power when engine temp increases to a point. I prefer to run a little lower temp ( 160 thermostat) giving me a little room when I run hard for longer periods of time.

A little slow this morning I see it was mentioned above.

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Dockside Dave
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

Thanks one eyed! If you could post pics of the inline fitting that would be great.

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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by One Eyed Gator »

Send me a PM with your number and I will text you a few when I get home.

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Dockside Dave
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

With the information provided I found that the steam ports on the heads are the probable solution. I do not have steam lines and from what I have found they appear to be a valid part to resolve hot spots in the block.

Question: Obviously there are four ports with a fifth line going back to the radiator. On an airboat would the fifth line go back to the expansion box at the top of the cage with is the highest point?

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Robo
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Robo »

I have a Waterthunder motor, runs 175 degrees all day. Dave sells a disc that replaces thermostat to slow water, solves the problem of sticking thermostat, never heard of a heating problem with his motors.

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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by BUSHHOG85 »

unforgiven11B wrote:Never said 160 was a good for a engine. You need to watch your mouth mofo, finding you ain’t a problem. Believe me I’m not the one you want hunting for you! Your bi@&h a$$ would shit your pants. Talk what you want behind a keyboard I’ll meet anytime anyplace guaranteed

My money is on the dude with the 540 :blackeye: ..everyone knows car motor guys sit to pee :wink:
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by kwanjangnihm »

Image
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Aeon
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Aeon »

160 and the computer might not come out of open loop operation. Not sure how your computer was setup but you might be giving up some hp or throttle response

Ps I run a 160 thermo and she runs 180 all the time.

Definitely want the steam line in front linked to your expansion tank. The back ports are bridged, the fronts are bridged with a t to the tank. I'll see if I can take a pic tomorrow. Don't quote me on how they run till I go look
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hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

Earl's Performance has these trick billet aluminum fittings that replace the OEM steam lines. They use 4an hose and fittings so they can be custom fit to any setup.
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Dockside Dave
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by Dockside Dave »

I have ordered ICT Billet crossover kits for the rear and front steam ports. As suggested and researched, I am going to run a line from the from front port to the expansion box. Going to weld an AN fitting to the box.

This makes perfect sense to remove the air from the block.

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hdsadey
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Re: Engine Coolant Burp

Post by hdsadey »

ICT are equally as nice pieces.
02 Predator 12' 0320 Lycoming
2019 Circle H 408 Windsor DD Sig Series 74"
99 Donzi 16 Classic 350 Vortec

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