help !! 2007 gto airboat 350 starting issue.

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:54 pm

I'm new to the airboat community and bought a nice used 2007 airboat with a nice 350 carbureted engine. Everything is working great just has an issue when starting the boat. You put the key in and turn it and it goes click then the second try it still goes click but on the third try every time it fires up like both and runs great. I changed the starter and cleaned all the engine and starter grounds but it still does the same thing. Even cleaned the wires that meet the key ignition no change. It has the battery swith from battery one or two or all. Is that the problem I need help please guys. Thanks.

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:55 pm

I forgot to mention the battery's are new and testing good.

skinny99 · Post by **skinny99** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 6:43 pm

Is there a ground strap from rigging to engine and one from battery to rigging? Sounds like a lack of grounding to me.

jeepinocala1111 · Post by **jeepinocala1111** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:09 pm

You said you changed the starter did you make them test it. A friend just got a new starter and the first one they gave him was bad. I do agree sounds like a ground or starter selenoid. Does GTO use a starter relays.

nomad41 · Post by **nomad41** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:11 pm

Change out ign. Switch. I had one go bad and that is what it did. Buy a good marine ign. Switch. Not some cheap piece of junk from advance auto

pontoon outlaw · Post by **pontoon outlaw** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:57 pm

just what Nomad said

got 20,000 dollars in the Motor and Rigging, Don't put a china pos for an ignition switch to start it

dodobird · Post by **dodobird** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 11:40 pm

mine was clicking and dragging last week... everything was good checked the ignition switch had a crack in it and when I pulled it out the whole back side fell apart glad it didn't turn the motor off while on a plane new one in works great

SwampShyster · Post by **SwampShyster** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:07 am

When you cleaned the wires attached to the ignition switch, did you carefully try touching the 12 volt wire from the battery to the wire going to the starter to see if the engine would crank? Did you also clean the ignition switch wire where it attached to the starter. I am assuming that all the wires have crimp on terminals. These can go bad inside the crimp. I notice from you boat picture that is has IL registration. Where the boat has spent its last 7 years can make a big difference on the amount of corrosion on electrical connections. My guess is that the three try starting sequence is heating up and scraping clean the contacts in the ignition switch until enough contact is made to send enough current to the starter solenoid.

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:13 am

Ya the boat spent all its life in Illinois. Stored indoors. I did clean up the wire that connect to the starter and to the engine block. The battery ground is to the engine block and I also cleaned that to. As far as the ignition where you stick the key in I only clean the wires that connect to the back of it. I didn't connwxt straight. To the battery. The starter was tested at the store works perfectly. So how much is a new ignition and is that what u guys think. Or any ideas. Thanks for the help !

nomad41 · Post by **nomad41** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 1:55 pm

http://www.go2marine.com/product/16936F ... witch.html

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:13 pm

That's a nice ignition switch ! Does everyone agree that's the problem?

twister69z · Post by **twister69z** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:07 pm

If the starter clicks the switch is doing its job, I wold think voltage check at the starter with switch engaged would tell the story.
Twister69z

dodobird · Post by **dodobird** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:30 pm

mine was clicking n would drag some everything was fine but this...this is what it looked like when i removed it

Aeon · Post by **Aeon** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:34 pm

The starter switch only operates the solenoid, very low amperage. Start at the beginning and work your way back

Check to see if the switch sends 12v to the solenoid, check to see if the solenoid engages the starter. Check to see if the Pinon gear is engaging property, make sure it's adjusted right, fit a paper clip between the starter gear and the flywheel.

Since you know the battery is good that leaves the starter motor and the motor. Where is the initial timing set? Does it sometimes kick back at the starter?

akblackdawg · Post by **akblackdawg** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:40 pm

If you change out, I suggest seperate on/off key switch and then a push button start switch. Been very happy with mine. Welcome to SA and be careful with your new boat, looks nice, but they can get away from you in a second. Bud

SWAMPHUNTER45 · Post by **SWAMPHUNTER45** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:13 pm

Next time it acts up try jumping the solenoid with a screw driver and see if it cranks. (S) terminal

PhilDeez · Post by **PhilDeez** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:04 pm

X2 what Swamphunter said. If using the screwdriver always works, I am betting on either the key switch or the wiring. I had to change the key switch in my boat not too long ago for similar issues.

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:06 pm

Cool I will replace the ignition switch. Another mechanic suggested I run battery one directly to the engine instead of through the perko switch he says it's better to run it direct better connection. What you Guys think??

Moritz · Post by **Moritz** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:31 am

I have had similar issues with starting. It sounds like a bad starter solenoid or starter. Jumper from the Starter terminal to the small wire on the starter. Hook your volt meter from engine block to big terminal on the Starter.If it starts ok then the starter /starter solenoid is good and you have a wiring issue.

If the voltage is over 10 volts with a good battery the starter/solenoid is bad, If voltage is less than 10 volts check battery voltage is should be over 10 volts. If voltage less than 10 volts battery problem / or starter pulling way to many amps. If voltage as measure from the + to the - terminals is over 10 to 11 volts the you need to look for wiring either or plus side of battery to starter or the ground side from Battery to engine block

Next check from engine block to small terminal on starter voltage if less than the voltage drop you got in the first step then you have a wiring issue between the small wire on the starter back thru the ignition switch thru to the battery switch to the plus side of the battery. I found in the wiring harness near the ignition switch a junction made up of a spaded lug connection ( this was for a disconnect for removing the instrument panel) It was wrapped up in tape. I found this by feeling the wires and felt a hot spot (warm). Check you ground leads from battery to engine to see if they are warm when trying to start, These do go bad. Feel the terminal ends. You will have to start at the starter and measure each wire for voltage drop all the way back to the Battery terminal. When this connection heated up it worked ok. You will need to check each wire and switch.

Check voltage drop from engine to battery negative terminal.If over a volt 1 volt bad ground wire or connection.On my gto and a friends they grounded the neg of the battery to the seat stand. Then grounded the motor to another part of the engine stand. I had about 3]4 volt drop there. Corrected by running the ground wire to the same stud as the ground wire from the battery.

The voltage drop on the ground side is less than 1/2 volt. Check the positive at the starter to engine block should bee over 11 volts with good battery and good wires and battery switch and connecters at the battery.
Call me 979 415 4875 and let me know if you got it fixed or need more help

Moritz · Post by **Moritz** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:31 am

I have had similar issues with starting. It sounds like a bad starter solenoid or starter. Jumper from the Starter terminal to the small wire on the starter. Hook your volt meter from engine block to big terminal on the Starter.If it starts ok then the starter /starter solenoid is good and you have a wiring issue.

If the voltage is over 10 volts with a good battery the starter/solenoid is bad, If voltage is less than 10 volts check battery voltage is should be over 10 volts. If voltage less than 10 volts battery problem / or starter pulling way to many amps. If voltage as measure from the + to the - terminals is over 10 to 11 volts the you need to look for wiring either or plus side of battery to starter or the ground side from Battery to engine block

Next check from engine block to small terminal on starter voltage if less than the voltage drop you got in the first step then you have a wiring issue between the small wire on the starter back thru the ignition switch thru to the battery switch to the plus side of the battery. I found in the wiring harness near the ignition switch a junction made up of a spaded lug connection ( this was for a disconnect for removing the instrument panel) It was wrapped up in tape. I found this by feeling the wires and felt a hot spot (warm). Check you ground leads from battery to engine to see if they are warm when trying to start, These do go bad. Feel the terminal ends. You will have to start at the starter and measure each wire for voltage drop all the way back to the Battery terminal. When this connection heated up it worked ok. You will need to check each wire and switch.

Check voltage drop from engine to battery negative terminal.If over a volt 1 volt bad ground wire or connection.On my gto and a friends they grounded the neg of the battery to the seat stand. Then grounded the motor to another part of the engine stand. I had about 3]4 volt drop there. Corrected by running the ground wire to the same stud as the ground wire from the battery.

The voltage drop on the ground side is less than 1/2 volt. Check the positive at the starter to engine block should bee over 11 volts with good battery and good wires and battery switch and connecters at the battery.
Call me 979 415 4875 and let me know if you got it fixed or need more help

Bdriller · Post by **Bdriller** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:28 am

BorderBandits wrote:Cool I will replace the ignition switch. Another mechanic suggested I run battery one directly to the engine instead of through the perko switch he says it's better to run it direct better connection. What you Guys think??

Danger will roberson!! The perko switch is a major safety device designed to kill all power in the event of an emergency or if you have to get in or around the blender!

GeeLeDouche · Post by **GeeLeDouche** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:14 pm

IMO it sounds like a starter solenoid.. Cheap and easy to replace.. you can try the screwdriver trick that has already been mentioned and that would narrow it down.

Deano · Post by **Deano** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:43 pm

Bdriller wrote: . . . Danger will Roberson !! . . .

You had better learn my name, you Texan! . . . Or I'll sick my robot on you!

BorderBandits · Post by **BorderBandits** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:56 am

Thanks everyone for the help it was the ignition switch. Now it works perfect and starts on the first try every time.

Bdriller · Post by **Bdriller** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:23 pm

Deano wrote:
Bdriller wrote: . . . Danger will Roberson !! . . .

You had better learn my name, you Texan! . . . Or I'll sick my robot on you!

wish I knew how to go fetch appropriate pics to fit certain subjects and copy and pastem!!