TBAR for runners

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gary
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TBAR for runners

Postby gary » Mon Mar 07, 2016 8:11 pm

Starting a build. Where do I buy tbar for the runners and what size do I need?

Thanks

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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Chaseh » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:06 pm

1/4" 2x2 alum tbars is what I bought from my a local steel yard named Metals 2 Go. Bout 130 a stick if I remember right

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Planeguy
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Planeguy » Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:53 pm

What is the best way to bend the T-bar to form the bow?

deepsea diver
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby deepsea diver » Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:12 am

Ck out Simpson Quility Design. He makes the air ride system. He has t bars that is 2x1.75. And he can bend them for you.

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Planeguy
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Planeguy » Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:42 am

Thank you. I see all but the closest dealer (600 miles) are in FL and I have no idea what I would need to tell them (if there are options to choose from). I tried a forum search for plans so I can get some ideas on angles but I got about 1900 returns for plans to attend gatherings, intentions to build/alter boats and people asking where to find plans or blueprints. Lake Buggy (mini-wood), Glen-L swamp boat (wood) and Canadian Airboats (which are aluminum but insanely expensive at $1,150 for the full set when most aircraft plans can be had for under $300) are all I have come up with here and through Google. I haven't read all of the posts yet so maybe I will hit pay dirt somewhere in those 77 pages.

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JPerkins323
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby JPerkins323 » Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:43 am

Image


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"BUZZ KILL"

12x6.8 .090 thousands 1/2 deck hunt boat with .125 backup plates and a lil' sheet of stainless. 0540 s/v spinning 5 blade sabers.....Ready to party.

Built by D&E Metal works in Homestead, FL: (786) 412-9018

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John Fenner
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby John Fenner » Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:24 pm

Planeguy wrote:What is the best way to bend the T-bar to form the bow?

I use a homemade fixture that consist of 2, 1"x4" long solid round stock bars with gussets welded to the side of my engine crane to where the T-bar rests on bottom bar and the top bar is the upper die for leverage to bend the T-bar every 3" to the pattern. Will try to send picture of it later.
I never finish anyth,,,.

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Birddog247
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Birddog247 » Wed Mar 30, 2016 7:00 am

You should consider buying them prebent and drilled
12ft Palm Beach
stock 350sbc
2.1 gear/80"NGR

"Save a tree; eat a beaver"!

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goldhunter_2
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby goldhunter_2 » Wed Mar 30, 2016 8:13 pm

Planeguy wrote:Thank you. I see all but the closest dealer (600 miles) are in FL and I have no idea what I would need to tell them (if there are options to choose from). I tried a forum search for plans so I can get some ideas on angles but I got about 1900 returns for plans to attend gatherings, intentions to build/alter boats and people asking where to find plans or blueprints. Lake Buggy (mini-wood), Glen-L swamp boat (wood) and Canadian Airboats (which are aluminum but insanely expensive at $1,150 for the full set when most aircraft plans can be had for under $300) are all I have come up with here and through Google. I haven't read all of the posts yet so maybe I will hit pay dirt somewhere in those 77 pages.


ya I think the guys are overlooking your 600 miles away ... :lol: :lol: Find a local metal supplier that deals in Aluminum if they don't stock T-bar which they should unless its a little fab shop but either way they can order it for you. The 2x2x1/4" that was earlier recommended is great for a car motor barge personally I prefer 1.75x1.75x3/16" 6061 . As far as your sheets ; if you want a cookie cutter welded boat you want 6061 0.125" bare minim , but if you want to do it right get 7075 T-6 0.80"-0.90" for bottom, sides and transom then 2024 0.60 for your decks and I'm sure being a plane guy you already have a local source for rivets an have practice installing them :lol:

happy building post pictures as you go for everyone to enjoy
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Planeguy
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Planeguy » Wed Mar 30, 2016 8:54 pm

True enough, I am no stranger to bucking rivets and have drawers of them for aircraft use but I don't know how suited they would be for boat building. I will have to research that side of it. Unfortunately my past experience with running other style boats isn't good with riveted hulls (commercial built). They always seemed to develop leaks after a short time so I am leaning toward welding if I attempt a build but that also means I either need to buy a spool gun for my TIG or an actual MIG welder (you can NEVER have too many tools and this would make a great excuse to expand the inventory :thumbleft: ).

Lots to figure out and learn. More questions to come if I can't find it through the search.

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John Fenner
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby John Fenner » Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:20 pm

Built a fleet of riveted hulls for everglades safari Park in Miami back in '89/'95, 20', through 32', they are still running them daily. Use contact cement to glue all mating surfaces post deburing and cleaning, AN426AD6-8 for 3/16" stringers and .125" bottom, add on additional 1/16"s for 1/4 runners or metal thickness to last number of the AN part #.
I never finish anyth,,,.

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Planeguy
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Planeguy » Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:30 am

I got to thinking about the leaky boats after I made my last post. I think it is likely they didn't seal anything (cheap jon boats and canoes). I was thinking I would seal every rivet but I hadn't thought about gluing anything else. The other thing giving me pause with a riveted boat is finding help however, if I end up a little short handed I could use the back rivet method <set the rivet head on a flat plate and use the rivet gun on the inside> to do the flush rivets on the bottom. It would not be fast or easy but the bottom and sides could be done by one person.

Thanks for the info.

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goldhunter_2
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby goldhunter_2 » Fri Apr 01, 2016 9:52 am

your talking thinner & softer alloy in something like a john boat it really comparing apples to oranges type deal but to each his own
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Gary S
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Re: TBAR for runners

Postby Gary S » Sat Apr 02, 2016 7:29 am

Contact cement not only seals but isolates the two metals from each other. With a riveted boat you can also use 7075 instead of 6061.


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