I just heard Saturday that a couple guys lost their Engines to overheating I guess that's why I look at my gauges quite often when I'm running the Trails... with Belts coming off and something putting a hole in the radiator.... keep an eye on your gauges boys
I've heard talk more than once that some people are just lucky that way and some others are not. I know of one guy in particular, who had very bad luck where BBQing engines was concerned.
My observation is that if there is such a thing as luck,
it sure seems to favor the guy with an eye on his gauges.
"The suppression of uncomfortable ideas may be common in religion and politics,
but it is not the path to knowledge; it has no place in the endeavor of science." - Carl Sagan
This brings up something I have been looking into. I notice there are not a lot of boats with their radiator at level or above their motor most are below so if you are low on coolant the air goes up and tries to stay up with up being your engine that's not a very good thing. I am thinking of making a small box above the engine to hold just a bit more coolant with some type of site window maybe just a small box that I can have my filler on.
If you slip a hose or have a catastrophic core failure having an expansion tank or overflow mounted above or below the engine will not matter. If you don't catch it instantly the odds of a fatal overheat are very probable. That was what killed the JohnC engine and it was caught fairly quickly.
Double clamp the hoses and watch the gauges constantly!
You build your airboats the right way no radiator should be below the engine engine pumps are pushers not pullers so A+ for doing it right. Mine is below the engine I do have alarms but I also watch over my stuff more then others I'm sure.
Since I know the normal running temperature, I think I will look into an alarm set to sound off at about 15 to 20 degrees above normal operating temperature. It does NOT take long to overheat if you break a belt! It happened to me, but we were able to do a quick change to a new belt, and crank it right back up to cool it down. Keep a replacement belt along with the 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches CLOSE, so you too can do a quick change. Another thing is run the BEST quality belt! Cheap ones will twist, and break sooner. I run strictly Gates which is twice the price of the discount belts, but it is a lot better quality, and is cheap insurance.
I run temperature activated and pressure activated switches to my second rev limiter on the MSD box. Overheats or low oil psi will not let it run above 2000rpm, and an alarm sounds.
Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
fast is the other half.
Airjack wrote:I run temperature activated and pressure activated switches to my second rev limiter on the MSD box. Overheats or low oil psi will not let it run above 2000rpm, and an alarm sounds.
Airjack wrote:I run temperature activated and pressure activated switches to my second rev limiter on the MSD box. Overheats or low oil psi will not let it run above 2000rpm, and an alarm sounds.
Airjack is 2000 rpm below your cruise?
Its been mentioned before but a 12V buzzer mounted on the bottom of your seat will get your attention!
He'll cut your throat, baby, stick you in the back, drive off in your Cadillac.
He's more trouble than you think, he'll kill your sugar, leave you in the drink.
I run the MSD digital 6 plus box with a rev limiter that I set to 2000rpms. It's for drag cars with transbrakes but works great for an alarm system. I also have it on an toggle switch so I can turn it off if it activates in a turn or in deep water.
Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
fast is the other half.