Paint pain paint???!!

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Bamasoflorunner
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Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Been searching the forum etc. I have all newly fabbed rigging I did from emt that I want to paint black, looking to do the rust oleum or tractor paint after treating the metal with vinegar and priming with the proper primer for either paint. Any other paint ideas that are economical but durable? No rattle can and powder is awesome but want to be able to repair etc and it’s not gonna b a show boat. Second, the sled and rudders were previously done with awlgrip and in need of being redone. Other than prepping for new awlgrip, any other durable but economical paint process being utilized today? Looking at doing black on the sides of hull and black rudders both with a red stripe like the valve covers. Most of the stuff I read is over 5 years old. TIA.
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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Slidin Gator »

Bamas,

I recently painted the EMT on a boat Gloss black. You can see the results on my build thread.

viewtopic.php?f=85&t=72194&start=75

This is an industrial level paint job, not an automotive see yourself in the mirror type finish, but it works. I am partial to 2 part epoxy primer systems, epoxy is bullet proof. Let it set up for a day and then hit it with some 200-400 grit to knock off the high spots.

I also used a 2 part Urethane, gloss black top coat. Rattle can Rust Oleum "Appliance Epoxy" gloss black makes for a great touch up. You could also use whatever rattle can top coat that you prefer, once you have the epoxy in place all is well either way.

Here are links to the paint I used.

https://mobilepaint.bypronto.com/wp-con ... /p41st.pdf

http://mobilepaint.bypronto.com/wp-cont ... othane.pdf

Here is a receipt for everything I needed (other than a $50 spray gun and compressor). I used vinegar on the EMT and a whole bunch of Ospho on the SST cage wire.

Image
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

i Like it! I have the compressor, I need a hvlp gun from HF, not looking for mirror or perfect, just economical, able to touch up and some durability.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Slidin Gator »

That’s enough paint to do the rigging and then some, but 1/2 gallon each is a bit on the skinny side and not much less on price. The primer actually goes further than the urethane.

Like I said, if you want to save money, get the epoxy primer and then hit HD or Wally World for 2 Quarts of Rust Oleum in your favorite flavor to spray with the new gun. The primary purpose of the top coat is to keep UV off the epoxy any way...
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

Gary S
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Gary S »

I like Nason automotive paint. Automotive paint suppliers have it, look up Nason dealers and you will be looking for a single stage . I think it is Ful Thane. It is a easy paint to spray with some practice.

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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by flcracker9 »

I'm with Sidin Gator, epoxy primer is some bad azz stuff. I use it all the time prior to painting a vehicle. it sticks to anything, and unlike a 2k primer that is porous, epoxy primer isn't. You can shoot epoxy primer and leave it outside in the weather, and when you're ready to paint, just scuff and shoot. I do all my vehicles in epoxy 1st, then body work over the epoxy, then 2k primer to block and sand. The epoxy primer is also the best base for engines prior to painting. Just a thought!
12' Open Palm Beach, IO-0470-L 260hp, 72" NGQ

GMAC 76
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by GMAC 76 »

a guy I ride with sprayed his entire rigging with WetLander primer and top coat…..it left a beautiful matte black finish and nothing sticks to it...everything just washes right off

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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by unforgiven11B »

Slidin Gator wrote:
Tue Apr 21, 2020 10:57 pm
That’s enough paint to do the rigging and then some, but 1/2 gallon each is a bit on the skinny side and not much less on price. The primer actually goes further than the urethane.

Like I said, if you want to save money, get the epoxy primer and then hit HD or Wally World for 2 Quarts of Rust Oleum in your favorite flavor to spray with the new gun. The primary purpose of the top coat is to keep UV off the epoxy any way...
Slidingator, do you use the rust oleum as is or do you add a harder to it?

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Keep them coming! I’m hungry! Thanks in advance! Kid in a candy store of old days!

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

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unforgiven11B wrote:
Wed Apr 22, 2020 3:17 pm
Slidingator, do you use the rust oleum as is or do you add a harder to it?
unforgiven,

The Urethane top coat on that receipt is a hardened, 2 part paint, but it is not rustoleum. I like hardened paint because it sets up quicker for handling and getting the job done and also because the finished paint is harder. All the Rustoleum I am familiar with is a solvent based enamel paint. I have found the "Appliance Epoxy" version of Rust Oleum to be the hardest and most durable, but it is actually an enamel and is the slowest drying version, it needs a good day of full sun to set up. It does work well as an easy touch up for the urethane.

I also like the Rustoleum bed liner paint, which is about $65 a gallon from wally world, tractor supply etc.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... ack-gallon

We did my son's mud truck quite a while back with Epoxy primer and then the bed liner paint on top. It is not a real high profile paint like some of the bedliners, the texture is smoother, it is semi-gloss and hides all kinds of imperfections. On that truck we welded in new panels etc., no bondo, the paint hid things well and has held up to a lot of abuse. It does take a different kind of gun for bed liner paints, but they can't be $15 from harbor freight. It's a siphon gun, I just use a piece of fuel hose and draw straight out of the gallon bucket.

Image

GMAC 76 wrote:
Wed Apr 22, 2020 2:36 pm
a guy I ride with sprayed his entire rigging with WetLander primer and top coat…..it left a beautiful matte black finish and nothing sticks to it...everything just washes right off
I do like this concept, but I'm not sure I want slippery hand holds... I would still put down epoxy primer to protect the metal, then have at it with the wetlander system.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

SuprchgedPalmBeach
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by SuprchgedPalmBeach »

Rust oleum has a epoxy urethane line of paints "9100" primer & "9400" topcoat. These are very robust coatings that are extremely durable, the appearance will be a 6 out of 10. If your looking for durability and looks I used the PPG line of coatings on my boat. PPG Self Etching Primer, PPG Deltron Base Coat w/reducer & PPG High Solids Polyurethane Clear Coat. Any coating you choose is meaningless in you don't prep the surfaces correctly.
15' 6" Palm Beach Hull, GSO-480, 82" 3-Blade JX Series

unforgiven11B
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by unforgiven11B »

Thanks Sliding gator, I recon I should have read receipt better, the epoxy primer on there is this a zinc based? I have a zinc based primer to do the inside of my DB prior to using Dominator in silver/gray, but need new hull jacks installed and rigging pulled to do it right. I used it on my step rails and all decking. Sanded all the old liner/ coating to bare aluminum, used zinc epoxy primer, then shot the dominator, Only thing I don’t like about Dominator is it’s a gloss, and slick as wet dog shit if you got mud or grass on your boots I added the texture sand but not enough as it is still kinda slippery if your not mindful. Seems really durable so far tho. Here a rake I made then used the liner on. Did both side of all decking, step rails and doors.
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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

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SuprchgedPalmBeach wrote:
Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:47 am
Rust oleum has a epoxy urethane line of paints "9100" primer & "9400" topcoat. These are very robust coatings that are extremely durable, the appearance will be a 6 out of 10.
Sure enough, google says so. A quick look at the specs and these appear to be similar to the Mopoxy/Mothane combo. Thanks for the info :thumbleft:
unforgiven11B wrote:
Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:36 am
The epoxy primer on there is this a zinc based? I have a zinc based primer to do the inside of my DB prior to using Dominator in silver/gray.

Only thing I don’t like about Dominator is it’s a gloss, and slick as wet dog shit if you got mud or grass on your boots I added the texture sand but not enough as it is still kinda slippery if your not mindful. Seems really durable so far tho.
unforgiven,
The epoxy that I used (and the 9100 Supercharged came up with) do not include zinc. These are high build/solids that protect strictly based on encapsulating the metal. I don't have any experience with zinc rich epoxy, seems like a good idea. What brand etc?

That Rustoleum bedliner paint is also slippery as is from the bucket, I wouldn't put it on walking surfaces without adding sand or something else either. The gray boat hull is painted with Raptor bedliner, which is a 2 part, hardened Urethane. The front deck and walk around boards have the traction additive and that stuff gives a very rough / sharp profile with great grip. I can't imagine why the same stuff couldn't be added to any bedliner or regular paint for walking surfaces.

https://www.raptorcoatings.com/us/en/pr ... qICz5kpBxA

We also used Gator Guard on foot plates on the boat. This is an actual 2 part epoxy based bedliner and has good grip as is. It is very durable, but expensive. I ran out of the correct hardener (3:1) and decided to try some 1:1 I had left over from some other paint for painting the inside of the grass rake. It is definitely non-skid, for the first 3 months it was like going to the beach in Alabama, tar balls on your feet and wherever you leaned :banghead: After sitting in the sun long enough and enough mud/dirt sticking to it, it finally set up :lol:
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

unforgiven11B
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by unforgiven11B »

This is the zinc epoxy primer and activator, it’s quite expensive as it was close to $75 per gal and 15 for the little bottle of activator. I originally planed on painting the entire boat old school BDU like sniper’s old camo boat but couldn’t get the colors at the time. I Also planed on using Raptor liner as well but the paint supplier switched and started carrying Dominator, basically the same product different packaging. I added texture sand but per directions it’s not enough probably 2.5-3 x’s what it calls for would lay a more non slip texture.
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Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Guys I love the info. Taking it all in, anyone else? Thanks for sharing! Saw that Eastwood had a 2 pt epoxy primer, anyone use it?

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Slidin Gator »

Yes, I have used the Eastwood primer. It lays out smoother than the mopoxy, but a bit more expensive. I would recommend it.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

What have you guys used on sides of hull? If you look at the pic of my boat that’s awlgrip, ten plus according to previous owner who’s a good friend.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Slidin Gator »

Steelflex on the outside of the hull. Under polymer too.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

Gary S
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Gary S »

Awl grip is defiantly the best. Nason is a good paint also. Mason is a easy paint to use and it is durable. Nothing is going to stand up to running sawgrass. My theory is make it look new and use the hell out of it. If the paint wears off its a sign it isn't sitting on the trailer.

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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by SuprchgedPalmBeach »

Roll 2 coats of sleelflex, on the sides you will need to brush it with a paint brush with lacquer thinner lightly until it kicks off. This reduces the runs.
15' 6" Palm Beach Hull, GSO-480, 82" 3-Blade JX Series

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Copy thanks again for the info share!

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Slidin Gator wrote:
Tue Apr 21, 2020 10:57 pm
That’s enough paint to do the rigging and then some, but 1/2 gallon each is a bit on the skinny side and not much less on price. The primer actually goes further than the urethane.

Like I said, if you want to save money, get the epoxy primer and then hit HD or Wally World for 2 Quarts of Rust Oleum in your favorite flavor to spray with the new gun. The primary purpose of the top coat is to keep UV off the epoxy any way...
I pretty much bought what you have on the slip, I’m looking to blast the heavier rusted areas and joints with baking soda, etch the conduit and wire with vinegar then the Ospho prio to paint. Did you let the Ospho go overnight or 30 min? Also I have a 1.4 tip on hvlp the guy at glue prod sold me extra thinner to do mapoxy at 4-1-1.5. What was you tip? Any other tips? Also, the hull Sides, rake sides, rudders, and transom is gonna get sprayed with awlgrip after.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Slidin Gator »

I would not let Ospho sit overnight, but I did give it a good 2 hours on my SST wire to get some kind of etch. On the rigging I just used vinegar, rubbed down with a scotch brite pad. Ospho is stronger and can work, you just have to watch it on the good galvanizing and it eats up your hands.

Just checked, my guns have 1.4 tips too. The epoxy goes on fairly thick, don't worry about laying it smooth, just paint. You can lay the topcoat on within a few hours if you want. If you let it cure you have to sand it for the top coat to stick. I normally let it sit for a day or more, then smooth it out with Scotch Brite pads or fine sand paper.

The Urethane is a bit harder to lay out glossy. You have to spray it fairly wet for a nice gloss or dry to give it a flat/rougher look. It depends on the look you are after. Good luck.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

Bamasoflorunner
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

Post by Bamasoflorunner »

Slide,

On the cups the 4:1:10%:1 basically forget the extra 10% reduced and fill to next line for the last part correct? On the Ospho I’m gonna do the 30 min, the cage and rigging have been in the weather for 4 months, but vinegar first of course, rinse and let dry before paint.the pic is after blasting with baking soda.
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Slidin Gator
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Re: Paint pain paint???!!

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Bamasoflorunner wrote:
Wed Jun 17, 2020 7:34 pm
On the cups the 4:1:10%:1 basically forget the extra 10% reduced and fill to next line for the last part correct?
I don't quite understand the question?? You do want to thin the 4:1 mix out a bit for spraying, 10% seems about right. They always sell me brushing thinner for spray application, but it works.

As for the graduations on the cups, they confused the hell out of me too, but I can't remember what I decided :scratch: Post a pic of the cup scale if you can't figure it out.
I still think I-10 is the Mason Dixon line.
2013 Mike Stossel Boats, 13' x 7' deck over, IO-540, 74" NGQ less winglets.

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