I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

A general, non-powerplant specific, discussion on airboat technology, ie., hulls, rigging, polymer, etc..
Mossy Cypress
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:57 am

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Mossy Cypress » Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:32 pm

Slidin, dont forget about guns,ammo,cases,and all them hogs you drag outta the swamp! Nice sportsmans gear/survival list, we need to make that a sticky!

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:28 pm

Mossy Cypress wrote:Slidin, dont forget about guns,ammo,cases,and all them hogs you drag outta the swamp! Nice sportsmans gear/survival list, we need to make that a sticky!

Thanks Mossy! It is a pretty extensive list and there are times that any of it is appropriate. I posted it more as a reminder of how much all the misc. crap weighs and maybe I need to organize it vs. the trip. At the end of the day, I'm lazy and forgetful like everyone, so it is easier to leave it all in the boat and make the motor push it everywhere I go.

It looks like my torque motor has been humping 2,500 lbs before we get to 3rd rider, 2 more dogs, 3 guns, first hog. After that we better be low on fuel or the 3rd guy is walking back or waiting for me to make a game drop and re-fuel run. Delete 250 lbs of rigging and poly, delete half (75 lbs) of the survival gear I have been hauling and maybe the 3rd guy and a dog get's to ride home.

That's the best part about building 2 similar boats, I can split up all the gear and people between 2 boats so we can run right and get home. Every time I read posts about making a big heavy boat run dry, all I can think of is that it is way easier to make 2x 2,500 lb boats run dry than it is to make 1x 4,000 lb boat run dry.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

Mossy Cypress
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:57 am

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Mossy Cypress » Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:44 pm

It's crazy how fast the weight adds up, I bet once the weight is all trimmed down and the boats are revamped them boats are going to run great. You definitely make your boats earn their keep. Thanks for posting all the little details and pics, this thread has been very interesting.

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Fri Jun 07, 2019 11:27 pm

Mossy Cypress wrote:It's crazy how fast the weight adds up, I bet once the weight is all trimmed down and the boats are revamped them boats are going to run great. You definitely make your boats earn their keep. Thanks for posting all the little details and pics, this thread has been very interesting.

Thanks for the encouragement, I bought into this challenge for the fun and knowledge of it all. Give or take $1,000 worth of good sippin Whisky along the way seems like a reasonable fee for one hell of a ground runnin boat #2.

As for "once the weight is all trimmed down...", my thinking on challenge item #8:
CarMotorBarge wrote:8. We need to see if you can pull my 5 seat barge back on plane. :shock:


If my boat can't pull Barge Jr. planned out back to the ramp, then the rest of the obstacle course is gonna be me stopping for drinks while I wait on the 400 Hp pig. :stirpot:
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Sat Jun 08, 2019 12:01 am

Here is the Friday night wrap up. I bought a set of gaskets for this motor from McPeck a couple months ago. I had to swap out a couple of cylinders earlier this year for a ride and used the McPeck intake gaskets on the STBD side. I ran them for 2 days and have now pulled them and will re-use them as I replace all the gaskets on the motor.


Image

Image

I have yanked the oil pan/intake off, time to root around in there and find the last of the old piston (2 years ago).

Image


Those splash shields do a great job keeping old motor parts from running into newer motor parts :drunken:

Image


This picture is from the inside of the accessory case and shows the drive plunger for the mechanical fuel pump. Gonna be putting in a new oil pump while I got her apart.
Image


This pic shows the cam that drives the mechanical fuel pump:
Image


Finally, this stem drives the mechanical tach. I'm thinking of eliminating this, the Pacemaker ignition will drive a digital tach, another 1/2 lb gone.
Image



That's a wrap:

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Sun Jun 09, 2019 10:39 pm

I have been told that folks like all the extra details, so here it goes. I hope some of these pics are useful to someone in the future.
At least I will be able to remember how to do it again.

Running the wire wheel gives plenty of time to think. 2,500 lb boat and 500 Ft-lbf motor. Looks like 5 lbs of weight is equivalent to 1 Ft-lbf of added prop torque. The Ghost is gonna loose at least 250 lbs, so that's another 50 ft-lbf of torque, half way to an angle valve motor already.

I have been needing to bust the studs for the mag mounts loose. When I switched to the Pacemaker ignition I broke one stud off and had to weld it back on just to hold the mag blank offs. I think they were originally put in with red loctite. Studs came out just fine after a little heat and oil was applied.

Image


Image



Cleaned everything up.

Image



Gonna like these new gaskets I think. They all fit great, no more wire wheel and brittle gaskets.

Image



Oil Screen Housing. This picture shows the end of the Vernathane. This is pretty much like a thermostat for the oil system. When the oil is cold it bypasses the cooler, when the oil warms up it sends the HP oil through the cooler.

Image



The HP filer screen (after the pump) goes over the Vernathane, all inside the filter housing.

Image



I use Never Seize on all the screws that I take apart regularly (Like the filter housing). I also use it on my ground connections. Most of the grease on my rudder is Never Seize plus dirt!

Image



Blue Loctite for the items I do not intend to touch again (but you never know).

Image



Tie Wire up the plugs. The thing about Tie Wiring things is it makes you think about doing it right.

Image



$600 for a new oil pump and most of the wear is the accessory case? Motor makes good oil pressure, the old pump goes back in. Here is a thread I made a while back covering oil pressure and pressure adjustment for these motors.
https://southernairboat.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=71481&p=688064&hilit=adjust+oil+pressure#p688064


It looks like I have the older style oil pump, figure 5-6, not 5-7, no surprise there!

Image

Image


Image



Almost forgot the Fuel Pump Drive rod.

Image



Time to wrap up the Accessory case and move on to the gunk filled oil pan.

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

lariat
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 342
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:27 pm

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby lariat » Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:20 pm

Great thread! Keep it coming!

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Tue Jun 11, 2019 8:14 pm

I got after the oil/intake pan Sunday. Holy Crap was it full of gunk, 1/4-1/2" on gunk. On the plus side all that gunk had encapsulated all the aluminum bits (from a piston failure 2 years ago) that had not gone through the suction screen etc. On the negative side, all the gunk was really starting to clog up the oil pump intake. This pic is after the first brushing and solvent dump.

Image


Use #2 for a shotgun cleaning kit, cleaning out the oil pump inlet passages.

Image


Here is the oil intake for the oil pump. It is right at the bottom of the oil pan and cast into the whole thing. Lycoming motors don't have issues with cracked or broken oil pick up tubes like CM's do!

Image

Of course, 30 years of gunk and it was time to clean this pan out for sure, the intake eat's everything. This pic shows how too much gunk build up can clog the pump intake. When was the last time you dropped your oil pan?

Image


This pic shows the front end (of the boat) on the oil pan. The port is the oil pump intake route. The pump suction screen and plug are removed in this view.

Image


Oil flows up through this passage to the oil pump in the accessory case shown earlier. The pan gasket is a critical element in proper operation of the oiling system. If it fails in this area the pump sucks in air. If there is a failure in this area you may not see oil leaks around the area, just foamy oil and low oil pressure.

Image


Here is the oil pump suction screen going back in. Make sure to clean this screen with every oil change.

Image

I had one drain plug that I could never get out. It's out now.

Image



Next post is fitting it all back together.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
kwanjangnihm
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 1905
Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:23 pm
Location: Bartow FL

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby kwanjangnihm » Tue Jun 11, 2019 8:54 pm

awesome posts & pics SG!! as lariat mentioned, keep them coming!! :thumbleft:

I changed my oil and filter every 25 hrs - what is your schedule??
" I don't care who you are back in the world, you give away our position one more time, I'll bleed ya, real quiet. Leave ya here. Got that? "

Seven3
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:09 am
Location: Broward

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Seven3 » Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:33 pm

Did you have low oil pressure with the pan in that condition? Also, would your oil turn dark quickly after an oil change?

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:03 pm

kwanjangnihm wrote:I changed my oil and filter every 25 hrs - what is your schedule??

I go on the 25 hour schedule too, but I have only owned this boat/motor for 3 years, no telling about the previous 27 years. I assume that the pan has not been off since Bob Stossel put it on. Changing the oil does not remove the stuff that is gelled up in the pan.

Seven3 wrote:Did you have low oil pressure with the pan in that condition? Also, would your oil turn dark quickly after an oil change?

Seven, when I got the motor oil pressure was a bit low but solid. I shimmed the pressure relief valve to bring it up into spec and there were no shims in there before. So the motor is definitely used, but knock on wood it's good for more. Look back up in the thread I included a link on adjusting oil pressure. The oil was not foaming and I have no reason to believe that the pump was cavitating, the pump looked normal, no cavitation wear.

The oil in these things AC motors turns black quickly, it's not an issue, just filter it. The 25 hour oil change interval is the short change interval, Lycoming let's you go to 50 hours (by memory, don't quote me). The interesting part is that the rest of the motor is not all full of gunk, just normal carbon. All the gunk is in the pan, where it belongs (just not for 30 years).
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:48 pm

Got the basics back together.

Image


Wire Wheeled the gasket joints and gave it a good mineral spirits wash down:

Image


Replaced all the steel screws and nuts with SST screws and SST nylock nuts. Re-using the steel washers and internal lock washers. The AV flat washers are extra thick and smaller diameter. If you switch to larger diameter washers you have to clean off 50 years of paint or they are gonna have to bend. I do like SST for the screw head and nut so corrosion does not render them in-operable. I use blue loctite on all this stuff, I don't intend to pull it apart again, ever. My Son can rebuild it the next time. The thing about blue loctite is that it is an anti-galling and anti-corrosion product. It does require torque to break free and dis-assemble. But the parts will come apart without galling, as long as you don't use impact tools to dis-assemble (looks like a trap for my son in 20 years).

Image

Accessory case ready to go.

Image


Lubed up everything before putting on the Accessory case. I decided to keep the mechanical Tach drive. The stem runs in a bronze bushing in the Accessory case, it is driven by the cam, so it runs at 1/2 the speed of the motor. The tach drive is the first thing to line up, then the oil pump drive. The Oil pump drive shaft (look back in pics) has to be lined up properly with the rectangular drive on the crank. You want to make sure it all seats by hand, don't go torquing the screws first or you may break the aluminum Accessory case.

Image


Put the accessory case on and trimmed the gasket. Note that the fuel pump is not installed yet, so I don't have to deal with compressing the spring in the fuel pump while lining everything else up.

Image


Image


Seal up the joint between the accessory case, block and oil pan. This is my favorite sealant for just about everything that does not see cylinder temps and that I don't want to fix again.

Image


Just at the joint, no need for sealant all over, that's what the gaskets are for..

Image


Time for a Selfie :roll: :roll:

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

Seven3
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:09 am
Location: Broward

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Seven3 » Wed Jun 12, 2019 12:04 am

Slidin Gator wrote:
kwanjangnihm wrote:I changed my oil and filter every 25 hrs - what is your schedule??

I go on the 25 hour schedule too, but I have only owned this boat/motor for 3 years, no telling about the previous 27 years. I assume that the pan has not been off since Bob Stossel put it on. Changing the oil does not remove the stuff that is gelled up in the pan.

Seven3 wrote:Did you have low oil pressure with the pan in that condition? Also, would your oil turn dark quickly after an oil change?

Seven, when I got the motor oil pressure was a bit low but solid. I shimmed the pressure relief valve to bring it up into spec and there were no shims in there before. So the motor is definitely used, but knock on wood it's good for more. Look back up in the thread I included a link on adjusting oil pressure. The oil was not foaming and I have no reason to believe that the pump was cavitating, the pump looked normal, no cavitation wear.

The oil in these things AC motors turns black quickly, it's not an issue, just filter it. The 25 hour oil change interval is the short change interval, Lycoming let's you go to 50 hours (by memory, don't quote me). The interesting part is that the rest of the motor is not all full of gunk, just normal carbon. All the gunk is in the pan, where it belongs (just not for 30 years).


I would be very curious to see how clean your oil runs after you put it all back together though, with the pan clean. My 540 runs very clean, I have put at least 12 hours of run time on my engine since I bought the boat and the oil is still gold. Great thread.

Seven3
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:09 am
Location: Broward

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Seven3 » Wed Jun 12, 2019 12:55 am

I just went out to the shop and pulled my dipstick. I last changed my oil on January 17. A conservative estimate is that I have probably 12-15 hours on this oil, I’ve run the boat 6 or 7 times this year so far. Some quick rides, a couple of long rides, so it’s probably more than 12-15 hours. I run Aeroshell Plus with the oil filter adapter on the accessory case. I’m no mechanic, but I would think your oil should stay cleaner longer now that you got rid of all the sludge.
DFE7FEEA-65C7-40F0-9581-F96E153BF55A.jpeg

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Wed Jun 12, 2019 10:40 am

Seven3 wrote:I’m no mechanic, but I would think your oil should stay cleaner longer now that you got rid of all the sludge.

I will watch for it and report back, what you are saying does make sense. New oil mixes with oil sludge etc. I run a spin on filter in the oil cooler line. It bypasses when cold, but still runs through the suction and pressure screens.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
kwanjangnihm
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 1905
Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:23 pm
Location: Bartow FL

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby kwanjangnihm » Wed Jun 12, 2019 11:58 am

that shirt rocks bro!! :toothy7:

torque rules.PNG
" I don't care who you are back in the world, you give away our position one more time, I'll bleed ya, real quiet. Leave ya here. Got that? "

lariat
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 342
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:27 pm

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby lariat » Wed Jun 12, 2019 7:27 pm

Great tip on cleaning the screen coming out of the pan.....I never even knew there was one there!

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:00 pm

I need some input on O-540 engine mounts. The old units are well past prime, isolation gel leaking and compressed well past spec. The present mounts are Lord (Dynafocal), the following part #'s:
J-7763-33
J-9612-8

The aluminum spacer tube internal to the gel bladder is 2-3/8" long and the mount ears on my narrow deck, straight valve 540 are 5/8" thick. I am looking for decode specs or otherwise input on the assembly code that defines the 2-3/8" long spacer tube. LORD gives model codes by airframe but I can't find detail showing the spacer tube lengths. There is no nose mount on this setup.

First I want to double check that the spacer tube that I have is actually the correct length for my setup, then I am looking for the assembly code to help searching the used aviation parts houses.

Image

Image

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

CarMotorBarge
Site Supporter - I
Site Supporter - I
Posts: 937
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:32 pm
Location: Lake Harney Woods

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby CarMotorBarge » Fri Jun 14, 2019 6:27 am

You just need to bite the bullet and put a gearbox on that A/C motor. Just think of all the prop shaft torque that you could make with a gearbox. 8) A 1.5 ratio would increase the prop shaft torque by 50%. That is a game changer. :stirpot:
14x7.5 Al David hull with 14 inch transom
419 CI Horsepower Barn LS3 with 2.88 Ox Box swinging 4 blade 83.5" R
GTO Rigging and B&S Tilt Trailer

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:32 pm

I really didn't expect much useful input on engine mounts from a CM guy, don't ya'll call em motor mounts or something?

Watch the whole thing for sure, always good for more laughs. But I think Ricky was talkin about gear box boats at 54 seconds on the timeline. :stirpot: :stirpot:

I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

diamondback0320
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 1317
Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:09 pm
Location: palm bay,fl

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby diamondback0320 » Sat Jun 15, 2019 12:55 am

Lmao

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Sat Jun 15, 2019 3:39 pm

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
Slidin Gator
Site Supporter - IV
Site Supporter - IV
Posts: 634
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:33 pm
Location: Jupiter Farms, Florida

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Slidin Gator » Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:01 pm

Got a line on some good, used Engine mounts. Its prep day on the Engine stand and fuel tank.

Image

Image

Image


Got everything prepped and made a run to Glue Products. I don't have a powder coat machine, but I do got a son, a sand blaster and a paint gun. Got 2 boats to rig and 2 trailers to redo, looks like Gloss black it is. Gonna have plenty of paint leftover for the next project.

Image
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

CarMotorBarge
Site Supporter - I
Site Supporter - I
Posts: 937
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:32 pm
Location: Lake Harney Woods

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby CarMotorBarge » Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:07 am

Slidin Gator wrote:I really didn't expect much useful input on engine mounts from a CM guy, don't ya'll call em motor mounts or something?

Watch the whole thing for sure, always good for more laughs. But I think Ricky was talkin about gear box boats at 54 seconds on the timeline. :stirpot: :stirpot:



Well car motor guys definitely don't pay high dollars for used parts like A/C guys do. :shock: With the competition in the SBC, BBC, and LS markets, car motor guys are able to buy NEW parts at COMPETITIVE prices. This definitely doesn't happen in the A/C market. :stirpot:

So adding a 1.5 ratio gearbox to an A/C engine so you can make 50% more prop shaft TORQUE is losing your balls? :dontknow: So is it all about TORQUE or not? :shock:
14x7.5 Al David hull with 14 inch transom
419 CI Horsepower Barn LS3 with 2.88 Ox Box swinging 4 blade 83.5" R
GTO Rigging and B&S Tilt Trailer

Seven3
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:09 am
Location: Broward

Re: I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

Postby Seven3 » Sun Jun 16, 2019 1:06 pm

This feud you guys are having is both hilarious and entertaining, lol. But it seems like it’s all in good fun. I know this is more of a HP vs TQ debate than a CM vs AC, but in the end that’s what it ends up being. IMO it all comes down to the size of the boat you need to power. 12 foot and under, generally speaking you need AC. 15 foot and over, generally speaking you need CM. 13-14 foot is really where you can go either way. I’m an AC guy, but I admit that if you need to spin a big prop on a big boat, you need a CM. Sure you get can go with an 0-720 or a GSO-540 or 480, but those things cost so much to run.

And CMB I think the reason most of us AC guys don’t put gearboxes on is because we typically like our stuff simple. Simple usually translates to less chance of failures, which is important especially if you ride solo a lot like I do. I don’t want a gearbox, radiator, etc. Just give me an old reliable AC in great mechanical shape and I’m happy.


Return to “Airboat Tech”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests