Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

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M0RYAK
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Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Fri Nov 29, 2019 1:00 pm

Please help with search of the engine's torque for 1st and 2nd gear ratio.
Beacause Peak Horsepower and Peak Torque was measured from rear wheel on 6th gear ratio at dyno stand.

Description:
2008 Suzuki Hayabusa
Engine Configuration Inline four, 4-stroke
Engine Displacement 1340cc
Engine Cooling System Liquid
Compression Ratio 12.5:1
Combustion Chamber Design Twin Swirl
Valves Per Cylinder 4
Intake Valves Per Cylinder
2 (Titanium)
Exhaust Valves Per Cylinder
2 (Titanium)
Bore x Stroke 81mm x 65mm
Measured Peak Horsepower 194 bhp @ 9,800 rpm
Measured Peak Torque 114 lbs. - ft. @ 7,000 rpm
Engine Redline 11,100 rpm
Combustion Chamber Volume
Valve Train Type - DOHC, Link-plate Chain Drive, Bucket Followers Shim-under-bucket Lash Adjustment
Primary Drive Gear(Straight-Cut)
Primary Drive Gear Teeth (Ratio) 83/ 52 (1.596:1) --- FROM CRANKSHAFT to 1ST SHAFT of GEARBOX
Final Drive Sprocket Teeth (Ratio) 43/ 18 (2.389:1) --- FROM GEARBOX to ASTERN WHEEL by CHAIN.
Transmission Gear Teeth (Ratios)
6th - 24/ 23 (1.043:1)
5th - 25/ 22 (1.136:1)
4th - 27/ 21 (1.286:1)
3rd - 29/ 19 (1.526:1)
2nd - 31/ 16 (1.938:1)
1st - 34/ 13 (2.615:1)
Transmission Overall Ratios
6th - 3.977:1
5th - 4.331:1
4th - 4.903:1
3rd - 5.818:1
2nd -7.389:1
1st - 9.970:1

Size of rear wheel - 190/50-ZR17 ( 21" ).

I will not used Final Drive Sprocket Teeth (Ratio) or any ratio.
Last edited by M0RYAK on Sat Nov 30, 2019 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Fri Nov 29, 2019 1:16 pm

Now I use the engine of motorcycle Honda cbr1100xx 150hp with a 13'x7' aluminium hull. But I want increase of the power.

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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Fri Nov 29, 2019 1:41 pm

I think for found the answer. I should to multiply the torque by the Primary Drive Gear and 1st or 2nd of Transmission Gear ratio.

114 ft-lbs x 1,596 x 2,615 = 475,78 ft-lbs for 1st gear ratio.
AND
114 ft-lbs x 1,596 x 1,938 = 352,61 ft-lbs for 2nd gear ratio.

Is it correct?

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Fri Nov 29, 2019 2:48 pm

Reslt of Dyno stand.
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SWAMPHUNTER45
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by SWAMPHUNTER45 » Sat Nov 30, 2019 9:58 am

Over the years I recall a few motorcycle engine builds. They were with smaller displacement engines so the Suzuki Busa power should be more than adequate on a mini.

Reach out through the search function and discuss your plan with guys who have built cycle engine boats. I'm sure they can offer great advice and tell you what worked and what did not.

For all your effort and labor would importing a airboat engine be to costly?

You guys would love a DD Cadillac or Chevy 383 with a drive.

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Sat Nov 30, 2019 12:42 pm

Thanks for the advice.

I viewed of topic about mini with turbo engine 200 HP from snowbike.

Whats torque and HP have the DD Caddy?

The Suzuki Busa have potencial for turbo (300 hp +). And weght about 200 lbs.

I think the Caddy it is very difficult search for me and it have big fuel consumption.

And so how do you think my calculation is correct about torque?

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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by SWAMPHUNTER45 » Sat Nov 30, 2019 5:50 pm

The 500 Cadillac makes around 550 pounds of torque at crank. Very usable power and with proper size carb can be efficient. If you find one grab it.

SlidingGator may be better person to ask about your mathematical hypothesis.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by Slidin Gator » Sun Dec 01, 2019 8:18 am

Moryak,
You said you want to use a Q prop, but did not mention diameter. I assume a 72”. At full power the ideal speed is 2,850 RPM.
First gear would have a 4.16 total ratio.
Second would be 3.09 ratio.

Second gear is the best match, putting engine RPM at 8,800, 180 Hp and 107 ft-lb x 3.09 = 330 ft-lbs to the prop. Prop pitch would be about 1, which is less than ideal. Stepping down to a 68” Q would let you turn more RPM and put the prop on pitch more. Otherwise, a bit narrower blade is probably more optimum.

First gear is too much gear for that prop. Your maximum power band limit is 10,500 RPM. First gear would make your prop speed 2,500 RPM. At that speed and power level you will need more prop, either a larger diameter (which probably won’t fit) or a 3 blade setup with wider blades than the Q. Such a setup would give the most push and be quieter than the 2 blade Q in second gear, but it will create more torque roll on the boat.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Sun Dec 01, 2019 11:07 am

Thanks! Understood.

Question. How calculate the "Torque roll", and what limit for my hull?

What prop can you advice for 1st gear (the most push and quieter)?

Sorry! My experience little bit more than 0.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by Slidin Gator » Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:09 pm

Your torque roll is your output torque at the prop. 400 ft lbs should not be a significant issue unless you are seeing issues now.

After thinking on this some more, at 400 ft lbs and 2,500 rpm, a 72” 2 blade probably does work. At 500 ft lbs I get about 2,650 RPM on maximum (#3) pitch on a NGQ. I also got 2,850 on #2 pitch on both the Q and NGQ. Talk with the prop folks to confirm, but a 12” wide 2 blade is probably the right ballpark for you. The Q (and Whirlwind Whisper Tip) work best when turned to (and beyond) it’s rating while the NGQ and JW push well at the lower RPMs. The NGQ would be the quietest option, which you mentioned as a goal. All of these will leave room to add power and pitch in the future via turbo or nitrous.

Can you shift these motorcycle transmissions while running? Having different gears to chose from is a great feature for switching between hard ground and economy modes.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:26 pm

Ok!Thanks!

All "airboats" witch using here, create big noise and my too. Because they work at max RPM.

And I want try anything new!

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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:59 pm

Add. Now I use the Honda cbr1100xx engine.

Max power 164 hp at 10000 rpm, max torque 91,5 ft-lb at 7250 rpm.

Gear ratio 1st gear - 4,35
Gear ratio 2nd gear - 3,14

Prop 3 blades 73" wide 6,5".

First scale point "0"- 18 degree.

Max engine rpm 9500 at 1st gear and I had possible dry run. (2nd gear minus 3000rpm).

I had reduce pitch of blad 5 degree and engines rpm increas to 10500 max at 1st gear.

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Slidin Gator
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by Slidin Gator » Sun Dec 01, 2019 4:36 pm

If you want to run dry you are gonna have to run the engine to the max Hp RPM, but a proper muffler should keep engine noise to minimum. Most of the noise is from the prop. To keep prop noise down you want to keep the tip speed down. 2,500 RPM max on a 72-74” prop will be relatively quite. Those skinny blades you have now running at high RPM will make your ears bleed.
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

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M0RYAK
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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Sun Dec 01, 2019 4:52 pm

You absolutely right! And I want have minimum noise during slow drive (about 5-10 mph). For max speed should be better 35-40 mph.

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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:45 am

Slidin Gator wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:09 pm

Can you shift these motorcycle transmissions while running? Having different gears to chose from is a great feature for switching between hard ground and economy modes.
It is possible, but I didn't it for present engine, because needed installation additional equipment. I shifting gear ratio before run (not comfortable).

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Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by Slidin Gator » Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:02 am

I suggest, before doing anything else, add a clutch and gear shift linkage to what you got! It is wise to minimize reasons for going into the prop cage!

Your original build called for free and fast running down deep rivers, then running the edge of deep water until you got to your blind for the blasting.

Now, you have found that airboats take shortcuts and you want to take those short cuts, I get it. :slap:

You are talking about doing a total rebuild with a new motor, just to gain 40-50 Hp, and maybe some weight. You don't even know what your boat will do right now! What you need is the correct 2 blade pusher prop, matched up with a good muffler and the ability to shift gears on the fly.

A wide blade prop will way outperform your present prop at lower RPM's and speeds to match your new goal of running quiet at low speeds, perhaps just on a plane. For those purposes, 2nd or maybe even 3rd gear will work. When you need full power, downshift to 1st, she will fly.

So, here's the deal, I will set you up with the most awesome, brand new, American made, carbon fiber, 2 blade prop that will run your boat great and sneak up on Geese to boot. Plus, just to save you a lot of hassle building a whole new boat to fit it, I'll take that Hayawhatchacallitbusa off your hands, seems fair to me :dontknow:
I grew up thinking I-10 was the Mason Dixon line.
1986 Airboat Engineering Inc., 14' Marsh Master. Refreshed narrow deck, SV O-540, 72” NGQ. A Bob Stossel original.

User avatar
M0RYAK
Southern Airboat Member
Posts: 122
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 3:13 pm

Re: Suzuki Hayabusa 1340cc. 197 HP.

Post by M0RYAK » Tue Dec 03, 2019 4:59 pm

Slidin Gator wrote:
Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:02 am
I suggest, before doing anything else, add a clutch and gear shift linkage to what you got! It is wise to minimize reasons for going into the prop cage!

Your original build called for free and fast running down deep rivers, then running the edge of deep water until you got to your blind for the blasting.

Now, you have found that airboats take shortcuts and you want to take those short cuts, I get it. :slap:

You are talking about doing a total rebuild with a new motor, just to gain 40-50 Hp, and maybe some weight. You don't even know what your boat will do right now! What you need is the correct 2 blade pusher prop, matched up with a good muffler and the ability to shift gears on the fly.

A wide blade prop will way outperform your present prop at lower RPM's and speeds to match your new goal of running quiet at low speeds, perhaps just on a plane. For those purposes, 2nd or maybe even 3rd gear will work. When you need full power, downshift to 1st, she will fly.

So, here's the deal, I will set you up with the most awesome, brand new, American made, carbon fiber, 2 blade prop that will run your boat great and sneak up on Geese to boot. Plus, just to save you a lot of hassle building a whole new boat to fit it, I'll take that Hayawhatchacallitbusa off your hands, seems fair to me :dontknow:
Dear Slidin Gator,

It's Great idea. I was too had thinks about remote control of gear ratios. But shifting during run, I never think.

During voyage from last video (lonely), I was try using 3rd gear and it was possible at shallow water but start was very slow, cruise 4000 rpm (ratio 2,48) slow speed (18mph).

Maybe I am wrong, But I feel deficit of HP. Now I live and know that Hayabusa have more power then BlackBird with the same weight.

P.S. Now have a time for analysis and preparation for next step (2 month), because I am at work and very far from home. At home I rest one month.

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