350 DD boat

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:27 pm

Yeah I hear ya, it’s blocked and doesn’t move and I was using an angle finder to match my angles as if the boat WAS level but I think when I go to build the front engine mounts and level up the engine I will definitely put it on the flat ground leveled all the way around so I’m not going back and forth from the stringers to the rigging remembering the angle that the boat is on. Lol ordered front motor mounts but not gonna be here for this weekend so not exactly sure what I’ll do this weekend on it but I’ll find something

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:00 pm

Motor is on. I have the engine level with the hull. figuring I can stack washers if I need to tilt it. Going to add a couple more braces but I think it’s pretty stout. Going to be finishing the engine stand and then start on the rest of the rigging next

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sun Dec 08, 2019 3:52 pm

Got most of the rigging set up and tacked together. Going good I think

SWAMPHUNTER45 · Post by **SWAMPHUNTER45** » Sun Dec 08, 2019 5:05 pm

Looking good Duck!!!!!

pierson skunkape · Post by **pierson skunkape** » Tue Dec 10, 2019 2:14 pm

I know I'm definitely getting in on the ladder end of this just wanted to add my two cents.... for a while now I've been running a 12-foot airgator direct drive 400 small block 2 blade Whirlwind stump pullers... 3 seat configuration 3/8 poly... she runs the ground pretty good by myself but I'm fat close to 260-275.... I think the 400 small block makes all the difference bunch of torque the push is really good with this thing jumped over the outfall canal in Hernando more than once with my girl with me

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Wed Dec 11, 2019 5:52 pm

pierson skunkape wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 10, 2019 2:14 pm
I know I'm definitely getting in on the ladder end of this just wanted to add my two cents.... for a while now I've been running a 12-foot airgator direct drive 400 small block 2 blade Whirlwind stump pullers... 3 seat configuration 3/8 poly... she runs the ground pretty good by myself but I'm fat close to 260-275.... I think the 400 small block makes all the difference bunch of torque the push is really good with this thing jumped over the outfall canal in Hernando more than once with my girl with me

Right on man. Yea as swamp was telling me the stroke really helps the DD application so that’s why I’m liking this platform to get started in because I started with a 305 I already had, now I’m going to a 350 I picked up cheap but I can always go to a 400 if I end up finding one. Especially when I get a carbon prop. Right now the woody will be my limiting factor if this 350 can turn it to the maximum rpm which I’m hopeing it will! And your not on the end of the thread I’m still building it lol. Thanks for the info with the 400 I haven’t heard much from them other then I saw on another thread they performed pretty damn well compared to a stock 350

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Mon Dec 16, 2019 5:19 pm

Couple more pics of the rigging build. Little more bracing and put some steps to get up into the passenger seat. Still a little more to go on the rigging and then I’ll be starting the stringer jacks, tank mounts, seat mounts and getting the mesh from the old rigging cut to shape and ready to go on. And outing some support under the driver footboard for the peice of aluminum I am going to use for that. Oh and also the cluster mount and oh shit handles lol. Then I get to take it all apart and fully weld and paint... hopefully that will happen next week when I’m off from work. I think it’s looking pretty good. Let me know what you all think

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:16 am

Pictures

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 6:22 pm

Well getting down the the end before it comes apart to fully weld and paint. Got three stringer jacks in, the gas tank mount and the stick mount. Also the driver handle/console mount. Need to tack in some flat steel to rivet the aluminum deck for the driver and for the console and then she’s coming off. Also got the console finished up besides painting it. Plexiglass and aluminum riveted together except the top plate unscrews off to access the wireing. The extra hole in the console will be for the choke cable and the fuel gauge will be a temperature gauge. Going to try to get electric gauges before too long as well.

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 6:47 pm

Happy new year everyone! Got the rigging fully welded and then painted. Ready for another coat and then to get bolted down finally. Then I’ll bolt the motor on and the seats. Get the front footboard riveted down and then maybe run a conduit from the console to the engine area for the wireing. All the expanded mesh was from the old rigging and I kinda had to peice it together to make it fit but hey, it was free and doesn’t look to bad to me. Excited to finally start going together for real now. I think the rigging turned out pretty good for a first time build. Let me know what you all think, I like the feedback.

SWAMPHUNTER45 · Post by **SWAMPHUNTER45** » Fri Jan 03, 2020 8:01 am

Real good to hear, it takes time but being dedicated and steady at it makes the project move along! Inspect all your welds don't rush that part and use a primer to protect them from rust.

Looking good

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Fri Jan 03, 2020 12:06 pm

SWAMPHUNTER45 wrote: ↑
Fri Jan 03, 2020 8:01 am
Real good to hear, it takes time but being dedicated and steady at it makes the project move along! Inspect all your welds don't rush that part and use a primer to protect them from rust.

Looking good

Yea I grinded them down to check for pinholes and such. Then I used a cold galvanizing paint we use in commercial construction on the welds and its always worked well on metal that is outside so I think it Should help out the welded areas

SWAMPHUNTER45 · Post by **SWAMPHUNTER45** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:27 am

Sounds good, your on top of things as is needed.

We rode yesterday evening for a few hours and there were a lot of boats running. The weather was perfect.

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 9:09 am

SWAMPHUNTER45 wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:27 am
Sounds good, your on top of things as is needed.

We rode yesterday evening for a few hours and there were a lot of boats running. The weather was perfect.

Sounds like a good time. Can’t wait to get back on the skinny water, can’t beat an ole John boat with a kicker but man I miss sliding lol

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:18 pm

Starting to go together now. Console mounted with gauges just need wireing. Need to get the alternator and crank pulley on the motor, bolt it down completely and then mount the rear seat. After that start on the cage!

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Sun Jan 19, 2020 2:49 pm

Got the majority of wiring done and radiator installed. Also heard the motor run for the first time since I’ve had it. Sounds good but can’t hear much with open headers lol. I’m happy with it. Need to plumb the radiator and get some pipe plugs for the thermostat housing and cylinder head and then I can run it longer and actually get it warmed up and such. Happy with this weekend

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 12:17 pm

Is the exposed cable with pulleys the standard for air boating or is cable and sheath the way to go. Old boat had cable and pulleys I never had a problem but my new one will need to be longer so was wondering. I couldn’t find any sheathed cable long enough lol. Just asking for some experience!

SWAMPHUNTER45 · Post by **SWAMPHUNTER45** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 1:06 pm

We use shielded cables.

The marine industry typically goes with Teleflex.

West Marine or Amazon are easy places to check price and size options online.

Gladesman06 · Post by **Gladesman06** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:00 pm

I personally now only use the teleflex push pull cable. When I did use braided cable I used Stainless steel non shielded but you can use either one. I've learned from the past that the shielded cable will start losing its coating after awhile and causes some problems with the cable getting caught on the pulleys.

One Eyed Gator · Post by **One Eyed Gator** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:22 pm

If you use teleflex cable the make 2 types related to the bending radius of the cable. Make sure you get the correct one for your application.

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:50 pm

One Eyed Gator wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:22 pm
If you use teleflex cable the make 2 types related to the bending radius of the cable. Make sure you get the correct one for your application.

As in one has a tighter working bending radius?

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:29 pm

Also I can’t find a Teleflex cable or a pto cable or anything with more than a 5in throw what am I missing in my search

Barefootduck · Post by **Barefootduck** » Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:47 am

Think I will just use the bell crank system untill I can find the correct Teleflex cable and then do it as an upgrade.

One Eyed Gator · Post by **One Eyed Gator** » Fri Jan 31, 2020 7:45 am

Yes.For a throttle cable you shouldn't need more then 3-5 inches. Midwest Control products sells an All Stainless Quick disconnect ball joint.

hdsadey · Post by **hdsadey** » Fri Jan 31, 2020 9:14 am

Look at LOKAR for throttle cable products. They make stainless shielded cables up to 15 ft. long. Nylon sheathing for smooth operation. Designed for automotive to withstand the elements. They also make carb throttle brackets for specific carb setups. Quick disconnects for the cable ends.