Has anybody ever run the Mighty Mouse 427 stroker sbc that is made by Smeding performance on the airboat

No, But presently attempting a smeading 1300 kit within a brand new ls3 and machinist found the kit a bit tight for 1400 hp? Smeading crank reluctor bent in gorillia delivery also so poor packaging?
I can't honesty do iron block again but know your pain and wallet!
My stock gen v lt1 work boat still eludes me it's abilities!
 
John Fenner said:
Your replies were valid conversation.
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I was thinking LS when I replied, reviewed the thread and realized I was wrong.

For Max PUSH, trailer Max RPM should be set on the falling side of max torque and ideally around the RPM of max HP. In the case of this particular engine that appears to be around 5,800 RPM. If planning around 2,200 RPM prop speed, the 2.68 gear is close enough (5,900 engine vs 2,200 prop).

If the diameter is limited less than 80", then less gear might be a good answer. Otherwise chose 2.68, 2.55 if afraid.
 
Slidin Gator said:
I was thinking LS when I replied, reviewed the thread and realized I was wrong.

For Max PUSH, trailer Max RPM should be set on the falling side of max torque and ideally around the RPM of max HP. In the case of this particular engine that appears to be around 5,800 RPM. If planning around 2,200 RPM prop speed, the 2.68 gear is close enough (5,900 engine vs 2,200 prop).

If the diameter is limited less than 80", then less gear might be a good answer. Otherwise chose 2.68, 2.55 if afraid.
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Well,,, they are all just powerplants tuned to what we put them through, with the list of the build of the engine in this thread,, it would surely hold up to 5500,,,, ok cam it to the torque curve to flatten out about there for efficiency, not to be a Richard cranium here,,, but,,, you posted in a thread about lugging down engines,, if the blueprint is there tune it to that, a prop can be a dyno with adjustments, "thrust gauge"?
 
I’m looking for a lower gear 2.3:1 for a centry belt drive to try on my 427 if anyone has one they would like to sell I’m interested
 
OMG, finally some gear experts no matter the author is gone?
What's your thoughts on 5 jw 88's only twisting to 20 behind a small alum block? That's not the goal. that's the proven start of the goal!
 
I have no idea what you are talking about but that may not have been enough information for you. So here ya go, I have a centry ch2 belt drive that is 2.1 and I am looking for a 2.3:1 or (2.3 to 1)lower gear to put on it so if anyone has that I’m interested in buying it.
 
Choppy427 said:
I have no idea what you are talking about but that may not have been enough information for you. So here ya go, I have a centry ch2 belt drive that is 2.1 and I am looking for a 2.3:1 or (2.3 to 1)lower gear to put on it so if anyone has that I’m interested in buying it.
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Well other than a prop blade rotation change, I'd suggest ditching that heavy belt box for a gear drive IMHO
 
Choppy427 said:
The rotation will stay the same left hand and I will keep my belt drive thanks.
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You apparently already have this engine, and a CH2 belt.
If you additionally already have the LH Falcon blades that you referenced, this statement kind of goes without saying.

If you do not, it may be worth reconsidering your desire to stay left handed given an unknown to you, tidbit of information.
That would be dependent on your commitment/need to pulling every last bit of available power out of your new engine.

You won't find a 2.3 gear to fit your CH2 box. There were 1.5 and 1.77 pulleys sets for the CH2, but 2.0 was as good as it got.
The CH2 runs a 4" wide belt, whereas the CH3 runs a 5" belt. Consequently the CH2 housing will not accommodate the CH3's bigger pulleys and are therefore not a option. I think the available choices with the CH3 were/are 2.0 , 2.3, and 2.5.

If you already have your prop, all is not lost. Those Falcon blades push more effectively with more pitch compared to set flatter. With a design of 2450 pRPM and then pitched to 4900, that puts you past your peak torque but will likely leave a little HP on the table. No harm done, perhaps longevity is increased. My bet is that in the end, you will find your best push is short of your max eRPM.

If you don't already have that prop and you want to squeeze every newton of push out of your new engine, you will need another ratio. No difference in prop price LH or RH, so that's a push. Don't know how pricing currently varies between gear and belt. The fact either way, is that gear offers more ratios and is lighter.

In spite of 2.3 being a better match; if it were me and I already had that prop, I'd run it, but then I'm admittedly a bit of a CSOB.
 
I miss spoke I have a ch3 with the 5 inch belt I have had 6 airboats over the last 35 years from sbc to bbc I have always run the 2.1 with wooden blades first then went to the power shift blades I hunt the south Louisiana marshes and the Achafalaya Basin I tried several different name brand blades through the years and did trust test with Make Robicheaux out of Franklin Louisiana and the power shift out pushed the rest every time and that was with the 2.1, blades all set to what the manufacturer said was best performance range. I know the the blades work with this ratio I was just wanting to see if I could get I little more out of the engine it runs dry marsh great with 4 guys chasing hogs but I’m tired of every one saying go to the 2.3:1 it would be better. So I would like to see for myself.
 
I miss spoke I have a ch3 with the 5 inch belt I have had 6 airboats over the last 35 years from sbc to bbc I have always run the 2.1 with wooden blades first then went to the power shift blades I hunt the south Louisiana marshes and the Achafalaya Basin I tried several different other blades through the years and did trust test with Make Robe
 
I "ass""sume" that the water walker was of the stump puller variety, that blade has proved well to me, the Whirlwind whispertip which replaced it proved well also, I'm sure you will find the right combo to run with 35 years of experience.
 
We all miss spoke, that's Airboating! I fail bad at good motor choices the major money and less money choices of props and drives that support the motor correctly! Lose the iron and couple more degrees if you have them available. I'm Not sure about a brand new motor build supporting older tech though! That sounds backwards? 427 anything should support a 500 goal at least and the incidentals must fall in place to support that. Great fueling also regardless of that mechanical fuel pump that still works for 350 hp!
 
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